Wood and Deck RestorationAsk any questions regarding exterior wood and deck restoration. Questions can relate to wood fences, wood decks, wood homes, etc. If you have a question on your wood project then this is the best place to ask.

Add comment


Security code
Refresh

Comments   

re: TIGER WOOD DECK RESTORATION
If the cleaner does not work then try the stripper and pressure washing for the prep. Use the Restore a Deck Stripper.
Quote
tiger wood deck restoration
I have several tiger wood decks that where installed about 10 years ago. The first year the decks where treated with penofin stain in a lighter color. The following year they where treated with a darker penofin. Over the years the decks have weathered and oxidized to a silver grey. I would like to bring back the original color. Do I need to start with a stripper or just a cleaner? I have tried a few cleaners in the past but nothing has even touched the silver color.
Quote
re: MIXING OF DEFY EXPOSE AND DEFY EXTREME
Yes, you can do this.
Quote
Mixing of Defy expose and Defy Extreme
I have a little bit of Defy Epoxy natural pine left over from previous staining of my deck. I am about to restain (after stripping and brightening) with Defy Extreme light walnut. Would it be OK to mix these two stains before applying so I can use up the old stain?

Thanks.
Quote
re: DEFY OR TWP
These will last about the same. One is not going to last longer than the other with both needing to be reapplied every 2-3 years.
Quote
Defy or TWP
I am restaining a 20 year old pressure treated pine deck. The deck is under pretty heavy shade and is subject to getting mold, mildew, etc. I live in TN.

Which of Defy extreme or TWP 100 would be likely to last longest for my application before needing restaining?

Thanks
Quote
Wood deck restoration in Central OK
I have a large treated pine deck that is 5 years old. Four years ago we "stained" it with Behr Premium solid color Deck, Fence & Siding Weatherproofing Wood Stain. The stain is peeling so badly that the deck looks horrible. What products would you recommend to make my deck beautiful again?

Thank you in advance
Susan
Quote
re: STRIPPER AND BRIGHTENER APPLICATION
Most apply the Stripper with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off. You cannot just rinse off. Scrubbing does help. Correct on the Brightener. Just apply and rinse after 15 minutes.
Quote
re: DEFY BUTTERNUT SAMPLE
Please call to order the Butternut color.
Quote
Defy butternut sample
I tried to order a sample of this but it was not listed. Is there any way I can get a sample?

Thanks
Quote
Stripper and brightener application
What is the best way to apply RAD stripper? The instructions mention the coverage when applying with a pressure washer which sounds like it might be an easy method, but I have read that pressure washing is generally not good for the wood. If applied with a pressure washer, what is the proper technique to use?

Or is it best to use a pump sprayer. It so is the stripper just sprayed on, allowed to dwell and then rinsed off? Or does it need to be scrubbed with a brush to clean and remove old stain well? I noted in a response to another question that it can be rinsed off with pressure washer. Does that eliminate the need for scrubbing?

As for brightener, it's my understanding that it is just sprayed on, allowed to dwell and rinsed off, with no need for scrubbing. Is that correct?

Thanks
Quote
RE: DEFY COLORS
Strip with the RAD Stripper as suggested. Yes it is best to strip if going with a darker Butternut. You would need about 2 of the RAD Strippers and 2 of the RAD Brighteners to neutralize.
Quote
re: TWP STAINS
TWP 100 is only complaint in about 30 states.
TWP 1500 is very similar to the 100 but can be sued in all US states.
TWP 200 is for shakes and shingles. Roofs and siding.
Quote
TWP stains
All of the TWP stain descriptions seem very similar. Can you explain more about the differences in the 100, 1500 and 200 series?

Thanks
Quote
RE: DEFY COLORS
I like the Defy stain I used previously, I think largely because of less odor and easy water clean up. Other than TWP being available in darker colors, how would you compare Defy and TWP stains as to longevity and protection? I do have a lot of shade and get a lot of mold and mildew which I understand affect oil based stains like TWP more than water based stains.

If I strip deck, do you recommend RAD stripper rather than something like HD-80?

My square footage is about 1,000 including deck, rails and steps. How much RAD stripper do you recommend for this size? Also if I use the RAD kit of cleaner and brightener, which size would I need?

If I do use the Defy Butternut, could it be applied over the existing Defy natural pine or would I need to strip for that?

Thanks
Quote
re: DEFY COLORS
If you go darker it would be best to strip and brighten for the prep with the Restore A Deck Kits. The Butternut is more of a medium brown in color. For a darker color, look at the TWP in Dark Oak.
Quote
Defy colors
I want to restain an older pressure treated pine deck that was previously stained with Defy epoxy natural pine. I'm thinking I may want to go with a darker stain this time to cover some of dark spots that remain after prep as well as to get a little longer life from the stain. I ordered a sample of light walnut but it seems to have just a different tint, but is not really much darker. Would the butternut be darker, and would it look OK applied over the old natural pine stain, much of which has warn off now? Or are there other brands that have darker color options that would be good to consider?
Quote
re: Deck sanding
If you sand, do not spot sand as the stain will apply blotchy. Sand all wood evenly. Sanding may also reduce the stain's penetration into the wood if too smooth. We suggest a coarser sand at around 60 or 80 grit.

The cleaners has a shelf life after mixed with water. Couple of hours. Neither has a shelf life while in powder form.
Quote
Deck sanding
I'm restraining an older pressure treated pine deck and plan to use RAD cleaner and brightener, and Defy stain.

Is it OK to sand out the darker places which the RAD prep does not take out? Is there any downside to sanding? I think, for example, I may have read that it takes the finish off the nail heads and makes them more subject to rusting. Is any additional prep needed after sanding? Or should sanding be done before RAD prep?

Also, do the RAD prep products and Defy stain have any limits on shelf after opening?

Thanks.
Quote
re: TIME BETWEEN CLEANING, BRIGHTENING AND STAINING
Brighten right after done cleaning, while wood is wet. Wait 48 hours to dry and stain.
Quote
Time between cleaning, brightening and staining
I plan to stain my deck this fall (Tennessee) using Restore a Deck kit and Defy stain.

What is the suggested minimum and maximum time to allow between cleaning and brightening and between brightening and staining?

Thanks very much.
Quote
re: LEAVING A FRESHLY SANDED DECK OVER WINTER AND STAINING NEXT SUMMER
You would have to re clean and brighten next Spring. If you cannot find the weather to cooperate this year, you will be fine to let it sit over the Winter.
Quote
Leaving a freshly sanded deck over winter and staining next summer
I am trying to have a cedar deck sanded to remove previous failed stain, cleaned, brightened and stained again with ArmstrongClark stain purchased from you. Unfortunately, here in Alberta temperatures started to drop while at the same time there are still rainy days every few days or so, such that it is hard to find several days without rain and/or warm enough to sand the deck (the deck has to be dry) and then wait another two days before staining. What would happen if we manage to sand/clean/brig hten the deck but we don't manage to stain it and we'll have to leave it like that over fall, winter and spring to stain next year? Should we postpone the entire job/project for next summer?
Quote
re: ONE OR TWO COATS FOR STAIN FOR FIR
Two coats applied wet on wet.
Quote
One or Two Coats for Stain for Fir
I am refinishing a fir deck with Defy Extreme stain. Should I apply one or two coats for this wood?
Quote
RE: SWING SET FOR GRANDKIDS
No, they are both safe.
Quote
RE: SWING SET FOR GRANDKIDS
Would citric brightener like Extreme Solutions be safer for kids than RAD brightener?
Quote
re: swing set for grandkids
Prep with out Restore A Deck kits for this. Once done, stain with Defy Extreme.
Quote
re: HOW IMPORTANT TO STRIP OFF OLD STAIN?
Best to remove as much as possible. Strip off what you can and brighten all wood when done.
Quote
re: RESTAINING DECK WITH DEFY
The Defy Extreme has replaced the Defy Epoxy. You can clean and brighten and apply over it. We would suggest the Restore A Deck Kits for the prep. As for color, depends on what you are looking for. You should be able to go darker without stripping being needed.
Quote
Restaining deck with Defy
I live in Tennessee and have a 20 year old pressure treated pine deck. I cleaned, stripped and stained with Defy epoxy natural pine several years and it needs restaining. I was fairly pleased with the Defy product.

Would you recommend using Defy again and is it OK to use Defy Extreme over the old Defy epoxy without stripping? Is there a darker semi-transparen t that would be good to use over the natural pine?

If stripping is not required, should cleaning with oxygenated bleach be adequate before sealing? Is a brightener needed after cleaning with oxygenated bleach? Would you recommend Extreme Solutions citric brightener?

Thanks very much
Quote
-
My grandkids have a swing set that is either cedar or redwood. It is very gray and weathered and probably has never been stained or sealed. I would like to know the best way to restore this deck in place with something very safe since the kids will be using that area after the work is finished.

From doing some reading on your site, it sounds like an oxygenated bleach product would be safe, but an oxalic acid brightener would be somewhat hazardous.

Is oxygenated bleach the best way to do this and is there a safer brightener than oxalic acid? Also does it matter whether the wood is cedar or redwood as to the best way to treat it?

Thanks very much
Quote
How important to strip off old stain?
I am cleaning a fir deck to prepare it for restaining using the same stain and color. The are are some spots where the old stain remains. Given that I am not changing the stain color, do I need to use a stripper to remove the remaining old stain, which is proving very difficult, or can I simply clean and brighten the wood prior to applying the new finish?
Quote
re: STAIN FOR WOOD FENCE IN PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Is the wood smooth or rough sawn cut? If smooth you need to wait a few months and prep. If rough, you can stain now. Look at the TWP 1500 Series.
Quote
Stain for wood fence in Pacific Northwest
What is the best stain for a new wood fence which is suitable for the wet winters of Pacific Northwest?
Do I need to prep or season the new wood ?
Quote
-
About two weeks.
Quote
-
How long is the effect good for before it has to be re-cleaned and brightened? Or does it (if it rained for a week or something)
Quote
re: restore-a-deck to clean and brighten
Wait 48 hours after prep. If it rains after the prep, you will need to wait 48 hours after the rain.
Quote
-
Plan on using restore-a-deck to clean and brighten my deck then re-stain with Armstrong-clark . It has been raining or showers almost everyday. How long can I wait after cleaning and brightening the deck before staining?
Do I need to wait til I get no rain to clean/brighten so I can stain when dry or what?
Quote
re: used your products to periodically refinish his IPE dock
Not sure on which products you are referring to? We sell numerous.
Quote
business owner
I have a client in miami beach that has said they have used your products to periodically refinish his IPE dock. I am trying to get information on the product(s) and procedure to use them. We are used to having to sand the dock down before applying the sealer again, but he is saying with your products they did not have to sand down first. Any assistance would be appreciated.
Quote
re: ARE THIS STAIN MADE IN USA ?
All the stains we sell are made in the USA.
Quote
Are this stain made in USA ?
Are this stain made in USA ?
Quote
re: Advice for next time?
I bet it was pollen. Pollen is a mold feeder and can stick the to the TWP as drying. The TWP lasts about 2-3 years. Try to redo the deck after the pollen has stopped.
Quote
Advice for next time?
I live in Raleigh, NC and asked for advice on this site after my previous treatment only lasted 1 year. In fall 2014, I bought the Restore-A-Deck Package and TWP 100 Series based on the recommendations . I was unable to do the work until spring 2015. It was a 2 weekend process, making sure I followed the steps but the deck looked great. Starting in the spring this year I noticed a little mildew on the deck in spots. Fast forward 2 months and I see a lot of black mildew everywhere. After only 14-16 months it looks like I need to redo my deck. Any suggestions or thoughts where I went wrong? I know I live in a wet, humid climate and the deck is also in the shade a lot in the warmer months but exposed in the colder months but shouldn't the deck treatment last longer than just a year? Thank you.
Quote
re: Time shipping to Ontario Canada ?
2-4 days.
Quote
-
Time shipping to Ontario Canada ?
Quote
-
Time shipping to Ontario Canada ?
Quote
re: ship to Ontario Canada 60 gallon
I am sorry but we do not discount when shipping to Canada.
Quote
-
I'm going to buy and ship to Ontario Canada 60 gallon ( 12 x 5 ) can I have discount for my big order?
Quote
re: 20 yr. old pressure treated pine deck
You cannot apply anything over the Cabot. it needs to be removed when switching brands of stain. if you do not remove the cabot, then the new coating will not be able to penetrate and will fail. Once removed, we highly not suggest the SW products. They have bad reviews. Try the Armstrong Clark or TWP stain.
Quote
-
Hi. We have a 20 yr. old pressure treated pine deck receiving 7 hrs. of full sun a day outside Phila., PA. Maintained every 3 yrs. ourselves simply with cleaning and top coat of Cabot oil semi transparent stain for a total of 6 coatings which held up fairly well over each 3 year time frame. Never wanted to use a solid stain fearing peeling issues. Having pros handle it this year. Professional #1 says after prep he would suggest oil based Deckscape Sherwin/W product, but says he will use whatever OIL OR WATER semi transparent stain we would like him to use. Professional #2 says, after prep, that he wants to use Sherwin/W SOLID water based stain only and tells us that semi transparent stain will no longer adhere - although the Cabot we used adhered perfectly 6 times in 18 years. There is a $1,000 difference in the bids. I'm interested in what prep steps actually need to be taken; whether I can use a semi transparent oil based product by a different manufacturer over the last used oil Semi/T Cabot stain; and whether a water based semi transparent stain
from a different manufacturer can be used over the last used oil Semi/T Cabot stain. Any guidance you could offer as professionals would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Quote
-
Yes on RAD Stain stripper. Both AC and Defy will about last the same for your wood. Your wood type will require an annual cleaning and recoating.
Quote
-
Thank you for your help!!! With a deck in Georgia in full sun a good part of the day would you recommend the AC semi transparent over the defy or AC clear for better protection and less weathering? And RAD or stripping? Thank you again!!
Quote
re: 1 YEAR OLD GARAPA AND IPE DECK
Yes stripping will work. Does not matter that you cleaned first. The stripping will get the wood a more even appearance. Defy Hardwoods or AC in Amber or Mahogany colors will work.
Quote
1 year old garapa and Ipe deck
I have a 1 year old garapa Ipe deck that was sealed with Messmers UV clear last year after construction. It has weathered and grayed and was just cleaned and brightened. I still have areas that are uneven or do not appear as clean and clear as others (I.e those under tables pots that were not exposed to the elements) and some stains and unevenness. First, would it be best to attempt stripping at this point, is that safe to do so soon after cleaning/bright ening? The plan is to seal this year with a different product that will hopefully protect better? Looking at Defy and Armstrong- thoughts? And THANK YOU for your time and consideration!!
Quote
re: METAL STAINS
Most likely is is rust stains and you cannot surface clean these to remove. You can try a wood brightener to remove them but if the stains are extremely deep then they will not come out all the way. Before using a wood brightener your will have to clean the deck to remove dirt, oxidation, etc. You then apply the wood brightener and let it sit on the deck for 20-30 minutes. Use the Restore A Deck Kits.
Quote
Metal Stains
Deck is year old PT and has some deep looking metal stains ( iron sculptures?). I live in Raleigh NC area. Can you recommend cleaning procedure/produ cts? Thanks.
Quote
re: Painted deck
Sorry but we do not sell any deck paints off this website. They are semi-transparen t, transparent, and semi-solid stains that cannot be applied over a Deck Paint.
Quote
Painted deck
My deck was spray painted 3 years ago with Sherwin Williams Landscapes Deck Paint. It is starting to fade and I want to paint over it. I prefer not to strip it. Deck is approximately 400 sq ft. Do you have along lasting paint that can be used. I prefer something that will keep water out (seal the deck) as it has a patio under it.
Thanks,
Richard
Quote
re: Dock sealing
You will need to wait about 3 months. You will also need to prep by using a deck cleaner and wood brightener after waiting. Use the Restore A Deck Kits that we sell. No stain/color means it will not provide UV protection from graying. Are you okay with having your wood turn gray? If so you can use a clear sealer like the Defy Extreme Clear or the TWP in Clear.
Quote
Dock sealing
I am getting a new dock and boat house installed and want to know when and what I should use to seal it. It will be built with treated lumber. I live in the south on the Gulf Coast. The dock is on a river but within 15 miles to the coast.

How long should I wait before sealing it? I know sometimes treated lumber is still kind of wet when installed.

What type of sealer? I do not want a stain I just want to seal it.

Thanks!
Quote
re: Some local contractors in my area use bleach to clean decks. What's your take on it?
Bleach is known to damage the lignin of the wood. Best to use a deck cleaner like the Restore A Deck products.
Quote
Bleach
Some local contractors in my area use bleach to clean decks. What's your take on it?

Thanks, Gary
Quote
re: Staining Replacement Boards on Remodeled Deck
If you stain to early without seasoning and prep then the Defy may not penetrate and it could prematurely fail.
Quote
Staining Replacement Boards on Remodeled Deck
I have recently added an extension to my PT pine deck. In the process some of the decking boards on the old section of the deck needed to be replaced. The new boards have not been seasoned for 3 to 6 months as recommended, however, I don't want to stain only the "old" boards and leave the new untreated.

What will happen, if I apply Defy stain to the new boards before they have aged?
Quote
re: RE: SECOND COAT OF ARMSTRONG CLARK NEEDED?
Not easy to spot sand and blend without it showing as a larger spot. We have never had good results with this attempt.
Quote
re: SECOND COAT OF ARMSTRONG CLARK NEEDED?
Thanks for the reply. This deck was done two-tone, with a beige solid stain applied to the balusters for contrast. Unfortunately, when these were painted, they dripped some of the solid stain onto the deck boards in several spots. They tried to wipe them up, but now they are showing through the stain. Do you think it would be possible to sand this out in a few of the most obvious spots and then touch it up with some more stain? That's what happens when I let my brother paint the railings! :P
Quote
re: SECOND COAT OF ARMSTRONG CLARK NEEDED?
Leave as is. You can always apply a light coat next year of needed.
Quote
Second coat of Armstrong Clark needed?
We applied one coat of AC Cedar Semi to a PT pine deck on Saturday. It looks good, but we are wondering if a second coat is needed on the horizontal surfaces for durability, or if it is OK as is. If second coat is needed, what is the longest we can go before additional prep is needed? It has been several days since the first coat. Thanks!
Quote
re: IPE siding
You should prep first with the Restore a Deck Stripper and pressure washing to remove. Apply a wood brightener when done. As for the stain, look at the Armstrong Clark in Mahogany or Amber color. Also the Defy Hardwood Stain. Messmers will work as well.
Quote
IPE siding
I have a modern house that has ipe siding. Messemers natural oil was applied. It was not cleaned nor brightened before oil was applied. I live in Georgia with high humidity and plenty of sun. The ipe has bleached out in many parts....vey uneven. Is this the right product to use.
Quote
re: Drying time
1-2 days is normal but make sure that the stain has fully cured and dried before walking on it.
Quote
Drying time
How long should the owner be off of the deck after it's stained with Armstrong Clark stain (which I recently purchased and now ready to have the deck stained)? Nominal temps are daylight between 65-80 deg. F.?
Quote
re: CEDAR DECK QUESTIONS
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with the same Defy. No need to strip unless you want to switch to the TWP.
Quote
Cedar Deck Questions
I last used a DEFY semi-transparen t product 4-5 years ago on my large 20 year old cedar deck, and the stain on the horizontal surfaces has completely worn away and the wood has grayed, with mildewing in some spots. Still have fairly good coverage on the vertical surfaces and on a gazebo. What is needed to refinish the horizontal surfaces? Should I strip, clean, and brighten? I was considering a solid stain product, but don't want to have to consider sanding for future removal. Should I stick with DEFY or TWP semi-transparen t products? This job will require replacing some decking and railings before I begin. Thank you!
Quote
-
Just lightly wash with water to remove dirt should be good enough. If it starts to gray then you will need to redo the whole process.
Quote
-
We installed new deck boards on my parents deck back in the spring. Last week I hit it with the RAD cleaner & brightener. We were planning to stain it with Armstrong Clark semi cedar tone, but now I have had some commitments come up this weekend that will keep me from getting to it, and next week we are out of town for Labor Day. If I have to wait several weeks before applying the stain, will I need to clean / brighten the deck again? We are in the Ohio Valley, and the weather has been very mild and dry lately. No trees to drop stuff above the deck, so it should stay pretty clean. Deck gets morning and afternoon sun, late afternoon/eveni ng shade. THanks!
Quote
re: RAD AND CONCRETE
Yes it can be used on concrete and at same concentration.
Quote
RAD and Concrete
Can the RAD Cleaner be used on concrete for cleaning? If so at what concentration?
Btw thanks for all your help and prompt responses!
Quote
Re: PT wood turning white!
Either is fine as long as you are 1-2 feet away and just rinsing.
Quote
Re: PT wood turning white!
In Regards to my previous post would you recommend a concentration of 1 oz of RAD cleaner per gallon of water? Also would you use a pressure washer to rinse or the garden hose?
Quote
re: PT wood turning white!
Try a lighter concentration and rinse lightly without scrubbing. I am think you bristle brush is agitating the stain too much. You will be fine and the color will return when the stain is applied.
Quote
PT wood turning white!
I would like to reapply the A/C semi cedar on our PT deck as indicated in a previous post. (Stained last year with great results) As instructed in the previous post I tested a small area of the RAD cleaner mixed at a concentration of 2 oz per gallon, applied with a soft bristle brush, and rinsed well. I noticed that the RAD cleaner is removing the A/C stain, and turning the PT wood very white. Before I continue cleaning my deck; is this to be expected and should I continue?:cry:
Quote
-
Tom,

1. Possibly but test first
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. Discoloration
Quote
-
Thanks!! A few follow-on questions . . .

1. do I need to mask the aluminum trim if it is painted/coated?
2. I am doing my daughters deck first and will do my deck next. I have aluminum siding . . . do I need mask my aluminum siding?
3. do I need to protect the aluminum for all three products, the stripper, cleaner and brightener?
4, What happens to aluminum if it is exposed to the cleaners?

Thanks in advance!!
Tom
Quote
-
Tom,

The only thing you really need to worry about is the aluminum trim. Protect that with plastic. The vinyl, concrete, and grass should be prewet and rinse well from all overspray.
Quote
-
I purchased your stripper, cleaner, brightener products. The deck to be restored is about 12 feet above ground and sits above a concrete patio. The deck is also next to vinyl siding, and is next to a screened window and metal sliding door. Some trim is aluminum. I would also likely get some overspray of these products onto a vinyl fence below as well as the grass lawn. How well do I need to mask and protect these different areas from each of the three cleaning products . . . .stripper, cleaner, brightener?

Thanks!
Quote
-
No you cannot apply the cleaner or sand after the stain is applied to remove. Knots will always be lighter in color. This is due to the density of the wood. Maybe a very light coat of the AC will make it look richer and less noticeable.
Quote
UPDATE#2
I have applied the AC Semi-Trans Cedar stain to my deck and unfortunately the fuzzies and grey knots are showing through after 24hrs of drying. Anything I can do now to improve the look? Apply the cleaner and scrub again? Should I lightly sand it? Thx.

1. Knots being lighter in color is normal. Knot much you can do.
2. You can stain over the fuzzies. Just make sure the deck is rinsed well. In most cases the stain will darken the wood so they do not stand out anyhow.



TheSealerStore , July 09, 2015
Quote
re: REPLACE OR NOT TO REPLACE
Replace the rotting wood.
Quote
Replace or not to replace
there are a couple of peaces of wood on my deck that have soft spots from the rain should I replace them or just paint over them with a good paint?
Quote
-
1. Knots being lighter in color is normal. Knot much you can do.
2. You can stain over the fuzzies. Just make sure the deck is rinsed well. In most cases the stain will darken the wood so they do not stand out anyhow.
Quote
UPDATE
Wow, after applying the cleaner, a good couple hours of elbow grease, and the brightener, my untreated cedar deck is already looking much nicer (mill glaze and rust water spots removed too). I had a couple of questions before staining:

1) The knots on my cedar deck are still looking grey after cleaning, scrubbing and brightening. Is this normal? Anything else I can do?

2) I definitely have the fuzzies after prepping as you predicted. What can I use if I don't have access to a buffer? Of can I skip this step and just stain on top of the fuzzies?

Thanks,


re: Mill glaze, rust water spots, light areas/fuzzies on untreated cedar

It will remove some but you may get the fuzzies after the cleaner. This happens when you are removing a heavy layer of gray oxidation from the exposed wood. I would suggest cleaning first. Let dry then lightly buff the floor to remove any fuzzies if they occur. Brighten and rinse well with water when done.

TheSealerStore , June 17, 2015 :sad:
Quote
re: Cedar deck maintenance
There is not an easier way. Has to be prepped properly and maintained every 2-3 years. This is normal.
Quote
Cedar deck maintenance
Every two years your products are used to clean, brighten, and seal the natural looking wood. What is the best way to maintain the look without the major work of cleaning-scrubb ing, whitening, and sealing every year? Thanks.
Quote
re: Boat House deck in central texas
The Defy over the Penofin.
Quote
Boat House deck in central texas
I need to restore a deck on a boat house on a freshwater lake in central Texas. Part of the deck is covered and part is exposed. The deck was built around 8 years ago but never stained. I know that I will need to clean the deck prior to staining. Overall its in good shape as it was built with treated wood. You seem to like the Defy products. I am considering their marine stain, however, I see that Penofin has an oil based product for marine use. Which would you suggest for my application. Thanks
Quote
re: RE-APPLYING A/C
Use the cleaner but at a low concentration of 2-3 oz per gallon of water.
Quote
Re-applying A/C
Do I need to use RAD wood brightener prior to applying a maintenance coat of A/C semi transparent cedar, or just the cleaner on my pt deck? Reposting as original comment not shown.
Quote
re: TOO OLD TO REFINISH? (NOT ME, THE DECK.)
1. No stripper will remove a solid stain with Arborcoat on top.
2. Either sand it all off or replace. If rotting we would replace.
Quote
Too old to refinish? (Not me, the deck.)
Is it worth refinishing? We started with a Behr Wood Stain and Finish Stripper which didn't work after 2 coats. (The deck is SW Deckscapes solid stain on bottom, BM ArborCoat on top. )
1. Is there a stripper that works on those products?
2. Is it worth refinishing a 15 yr. old cedar deck? It has started to get some dry rot in just a few boards around screws/ends. Some boards replaced last year did not have rot underneath even though this is a ground-level deck. (Seattle area, full sun.) Or should we replace deck boards?
Quote
-
The Penofin darkens, not the wood. Strip it and brighten for the prep and it should be lighter.
Quote
-
That meranti has gotten very dark over the years. will a deck brightener have much effect on tropical hardwood?
--Rob
Quote
-
Thanks - I'll check them out!
Quote
re: CHANGING FINISH PRODUCTS
Use either the Armstrong Clark in the Amber or Mahogany colors or the Defy Hardwood Stain. Both do not need to be wiped dry.
Quote
changing finish products
I have a deck of Blue Star meranti which I have treated for years with Penofin hardwood penetrating oil. Has worked well but I'm sick of spending a day on my knees wiping on and wiping off. It has been 2 years since last application and I'd like to switch to 'apply and dry' type product. The oil has dried out pretty much, so I hope not to have to strip it.
Any suggestions on product and transition process for me? I'm in the Boston area, so humid summers and snowy winters. Thanks for sharing your experience!

--Rob
Quote
re: DECK REFINISH KANSAS CITY CLIMATE
Use a penetrating oil based stain like the Armstrong clark or the TWP 100 Series. Both can be redone very couple of years by using the RAD kits.
Quote
Deck Refinish Kansas City Climate
What deck stain would you recommend for the Kansas City climate? I have a cedar deck that had not been stained/sealed in 10+ years. I've just cleaned and brightened it with the Restore-A-Deck system. It looks pretty good right now except for 2 boards that need replaced. The deck is subject to quite a bit of heat mid-afternoon but it's also under trees and I battle mildew, lichens, algae on the north half. I'd like a semi-transparen t penetrating stain that I don't necessarily have to sand or strip every 2 years to re-apply. It would be ideal if I could just use the Restore A Deck system every 2 years and re-stain. I live in Kansas and I'm not subject to any VOC regulations that I'm aware of. I've got no preference oil vs water-based. Thanks.
Quote
re: BRAND NEW GARAPA CLEANED FOR UV PREP IS NOW DULL GREENISH COLOR!
No it is not related to the cleaner but more to the wood itself. You always have to prep new wood.
Quote
Brand new garapa cleaned for uv prep is now dull greenish color!
We just finished installing new garapa decking with an Ipe border. The lumber was stacked and had about 3 weeks to acclimate (in rain as well) before construction. Before applying the Messmers UV, we were told to use the part A cleaner to remove some dirt and tiny black spots. After cleaning and rinsing, the brand new garapa decking has dried to a duller shade, with a very visible greenish tint to it and some boards are a dull grayish!! I have contacted Messmers and they recommend cleaning again and brightening. Have you ever heard of this on brand new decking after using an oxygenated cleaner? We didn't expect this amount of prep before sealing new wood and now are very worried that our brand new garapa could be damaged? Help and thank you!!
Quote
Re: Prepping Previous Stained Deck
Sure but use the RAD cleaner at a low concentration of 2-4 oz per gallon of water.
Quote
Re: Prepping Previous Stained Deck
Thanks for your prompt response, but one more question to clarify.
Would you recommend using the RAD deck cleaner, but not the brightener before I reapply the one coat of AC?
Quote
re: PREPPING PREVIOUS STAINED DECK
Use a deck cleaner and then lightly scrub the deck with a soft bristle brush to remove all dirt. Reapply one coat of the AC.
Quote
Prepping Previous Stained Deck
Last summer we applied Armstrong and Clark semi transparent deck stain with great results. I noticed some fading, and would like to re-apply the stain. What process do I follow to properly prep the deck for another coat of the same stain, The deck is PT wood. Also my question is what do I clean the deck with?
Quote
re: Mill glaze, rust water spots, light areas/fuzzies on untreated cedar
It will remove some but you may get the fuzzies after the cleaner. This happens when you are removing a heavy layer of gray oxidation from the exposed wood. I would suggest cleaning first. Let dry then lightly buff the floor to remove any fuzzies if they occur. Brighten and rinse well with water when done.
Quote
Mill glaze, rust water spots, light areas/fuzzies on untreated cedar
Hi,

I'm going to be purchasing the following shortly for my 1-year old cedar deck that is looking grey and has never been stained:

1) Restore-A-Deck Cleaner
2) Restore-A-Deck Brightener
3) Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparen t Cedar Stain

However, I have some mill glaze at the ends of a few boards, some rust water droplet stains from patio furniture and some lighter colored areas/fuzzies due to heavy abrasion (was trying to scrub out other stains).

Should I do something else to these areas before I apply the cleaner/brighte ner/stain? Or will the Restore-A-Deck products clean it up?

Thanks
Quote
-
Oil penetrates better then water based in general. You will be good with the AC as described.
Quote
-
Hi again. Thanks for your prompt reply.

From several readings and a basic understanding of the physics and harmful effects of UV, I realize that transparent stains will deteriorate faster than semi-transparen t or opaque (solid or 'paint') stains.

From your response, I gather that an oil based penetrating stain is preferable. May I ask why? ...as opposed to a water based penetrating stain in my situation?

So, without further ado, I take it that I don't need to be concerned about re-settling the Ph level after the cleaning with BEHR All in One + pressure washing and removing all of the previous stain?

In short: I conclude that I am good to go with AC! ...to refinish the deck and expect to re-coat it in 1-2 years - which is roughly what I got out of the last BEHR oil based stain I used effectively for several years before the 5+ years hiatus just passed.

To be clear I 'maintained' the last BEHR finish, with a good cleaning every 2-3 years and a re-applying of 1 coat (...or 2 coats; not sure I remember all the re-coat details, but it worked well for me for 18-20 years!).

Thanks again for your feedback and reminder!

...André

Quote
re: Refinishing 500 sq ft Southern Yellow Pine (treated) deck
Make sure all old Behr stain has been removed. Look at the AC but take inconsideration that transparents need to be redone very 1-2 years and semi-transparen ts are every 2 maybe 3 years.
Quote
Refinishing 500 sq ft Southern Yellow Pine (treated) deck
Hi, I live on the outskirts of Montréal, Québec. I just finished cleaning our deck using BEHRs All in One Deck Cleaner (+ pressure washing) and was about start refinishing with 5 gallons of BEHRs Transparent Wood Finish in cedar tone. But then it rained for a day and I found time to read on DeckStainHelp that BEHRs stain is amongst the worst: – tricky to apply to avoid overlapping, flaking in less than 2 years and very difficult to strip, if one decides to refinish a blemished surface. DSH recommended Defy Extreme and Armstrong Clark.

The deck is 20 inches off the ground, has a north and western exposure with sun protection up to midday by the house and trees to the west in late afternoon – probably 4-5 hours a day of direct sun exposure. The deck was originally finished with a now discontinued transparent oil based BEHR product that I read a few years ago was the subject of several lawsuits including a class action.

Despite its age and greying, the deck is solid; surfaces are generally in good shape with isolated cracks and spots of rot on some boards (surprisingly, most board damage is found on edge boards). All horizontal surfaces have been pretty bare for 5+ years. Vertical surfaces are solid with some of the original finish that was easy to remove with tedious pressure washing.

I am undecided between DSH recommendations seems and also from several readings on your site about the differences between cleaners, brighteners and stabilizing the ph level after cleaning – all prep before finishing.

I am looking to refinish with a transparent stain in cedar tone and am partial to a penetrating stain as I feel any film finish will inevitably breakdown/flake as do most exterior paint finishes.

Have I missed something?

Thanks, ...André
Quote
-
If it is clean then go ahead and stain.
Quote
-
I cleaned and brightened my deck with restore a deck. The weather has been bad and 2 weeks have gone by. Is it ok to still stain my deck or do I have to clean and brighten the deck again.
Quote
RE: DESIGNER
Maybe, I guess it would not hurt t try.
Quote
DESIGNER
Bummer.... that wood is way too expensive to discard. Would running it through a planer be of any help? Or would it just eat up my blades?
Quote
re: Designer
Only thing you can do is replace the old wood with new wood.
Quote
re: sanding after stripping and brightening
Use 60 grit paper. You can use an orbital or buffing machine.
Quote
Designer
I have a batu deck that was installed last autumn and left unfinished/untr eated to weather over the (not-as-harch-a s-usual) Alaska, winter. This year, we installed another batu deck on a lower area of the house but used a wipe-on Brazilian redwood oil (Penofin) finish. The new deck looks spectacular and we would like to do the same to the older deck. When we applied the Penofin to a couple of boards on the older deck, they turned out much darker, deeper red than the new boards on the lower deck. I much prefer the brighter tone of the new deck to the deep, reddish tone I'm getting on the older wood. Is there anything you can recommend that would undo the aging process and restore the older batu boards to their original tone? Thank you! Maria
Quote
sanding after stripping and brightening
We stripped and brightened our redwood deck using the stuff you recommended and a stiff brush. Most of the old finish came off -theres still quite a few dark spots and it left the redwood with significant grain raise and a super rough finish. I guess we should sand it now? Should we use an orbital sander, and if so what size sand paper is best?
Thanks
eden
Quote
re: NEED HELP WITH WHAT I NEED TO DO TO RESTORE TWO DECKS
Prep both decks with the Restore A Deck Kits that we sell. Stain with Armstrong Clark Deck Stain. Both can be found in our main menu above.
Quote
Need help with what I need to do to restore two decks
I have a deck and stairs that were built in 2007 and have a coat of Thompson's Water Seal on them. I would like to know what I need to do to restore and protect them. Also I have another deck that is over 12 years old and I don't know what was put on it and could use a lot of work. Wood is solid and does not have any rot on either deck. Both decks were built with pressure treated lumber.
Quote
re: 2 nd coat of Armstrong Clark
Yes you can do that. Clean and reapply a light coat.
Quote
2 nd coat of Armstrong Clark
I used Armstrong Clark Semi Transparrent stain on my pressure treated deck last year This was the initial application for this deck. Did all the prep work and the product looks great. I was thinking about putting on another cost this year as a preventative measure. I am not exactly sure what prep work would be required. Can I just use a cleaner and apply another coating?
Quote
re: deck cleaner
You have to remove the Behr form the deck and that can be hard. Try the HD80 Stripper and pressure washing. You may need to strip a few times to get it all off. Make sure to brighten the wood when done.
Quote
deck cleaner
Hello just recently build a deck out of cedar.
It is 2 yrs old. for the first 2 years I used a Behr stain product to stain the deck. With our harsh winter in Canada the deck has shown some peeling.
I will need to stain again this year.

Do you recommend I strip the deck or cleaning it with a good cleaner.
Quote
-
A good quality pump sprayer normally works but depends on the stain brand and type.
Quote
-
What kind of sprayer do you recommend to stain a deck. Will a simple hand pump sprayer work?
Quote
-
Brightener would not doing anything or remove dirt. You would need to clean to remove the dirt. Try soapy water first and lightly scrub with a soft bristle brush.
Quote
-
I cleaned, brightened and stained my new deck with restore a deck and Armstrong Clark last June. It still looks pretty good but dirty. I would like to apply a maintenance coat? Could I use just a brightener before staining or would I have to use a cleaner also? Also what cleaning solution can I use to remove surface dirt from the deck. Thanks
Quote
re: TWP 1500 OR ARMSTRONG CLARK
You cannot use wood filler or putty on outside wood. It will not work and it will not stain to blend with the deck stain. You will need to make sure all of the Olympic is removed first. If it is not then you should use a stain stripper and pressure washer to remove. Apply brightener when done. If you ha already removed it then just brighten the deck. Look at TWP 1515 Honeytone.
Quote
TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark
Hello,
Based on most of your responses below, I noticed that you tend to recommended TWP 1500 and Armstrong Clark. I would like to know which one I should use on my deck. I live in Virginia. I have a town house deck that was done with pressure treated wood. The house is about 10 years old and I assume the deck is as well. When I first moved in the deck needed to be cleaned and sealed as it did not look great. It cleaned up fine and I used something from Lowes to seal it. I am pretty sure it was Olympic Maximum in honey gold color, which did a pretty descent job of holding up for several years. I cleaned the deck again this weekend again with a deck cleaner from Lowes. I came across your site after looking up suggestions on what to use to seal it. It sounds like I should use a brighter now and then one of the products to seal it? I would like to do the Honey Gold color again since I used it on my fence as well and everything matches. So, do you suggest that I do use the brightener and which one of the sealers, TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark. There is some chipping in my deck which I plan on trying to fill in with wood putty as a side note. Thanks!
Quote
re: ONE MORE QUESTION...
No color means no protection from UV graying. Clear will gray naturally. Do you want it to gray in a matter of months?
Quote
One more question...
After the stain stripper & wood brightener, I'd like to treat the deck, but I don't want any "color". What should I use?.....(I have pressure treated wood)...Thx!
Quote
-
Paula W, if the old stain is till on the wood then use a stain stripper and a wood brightener. If not old stain then use the Deck Cleaner and Wood Brightener. Use the Restore A Deck Products.
Quote
Homeowner
My deck hasn't been cleaned or stained in over 4 years. I do not remember what was used on it last, but it was some kind of semi-transparen t stain, I think. I want to clean it, make it look much better & treat it for the elements. I'm confused....wha t do I do...which steps & which products? Thx!
Quote
re: TIMBER OIL SHELF LIFE
It is fine. Just stir it up to make sure the pigment is even. It would last a few years unopened or longer.
Quote
Timber Oil shelf life
I have 15 gallons of Timber Oil Warm Honey Gold from last year I wasn't able to apply due to medical reasons, it's been stored in the original sealed containers in the garage (no freezing). Is it still good? What is the shelf life of Timber Oil?
Thanks for a Great web site!

Lynn
Quote
re: Sand or strip bullet wood (ipe)?
You cannot strip that. You will have to sand it all off. After the sanding you should prep with a deck cleaner and pressure washing.
Quote
Sand or strip bullet wood (ipe)?
i have an approx 1000sf deck of which I've ruined by trying paint it with Cabot's Solid color stain at least 3 to 4 times over the last 11 years with oil base sealer and water-base coating. I have 10+ friends coming this weekend from my church to help sand or strip it. Should i continue to use sanders and friends to keep sanding until down to bare wood or use a stripper? or a combo of both? The old stuff flaking is constant, but the paint near the house is practically indestructible. (see Pictures) The ends of the boards and the risers of the stairs are also painted with the old Cabot's an it is on there very good.

It has been recommended to me by a professional to get off as much as possible and then every year coat with a quality semi-transparen t stain made for ipe.

Also, do I need to use a cleaner and brightener on the wood after sanding?

dropbox.com/.../...

I live near Portland and would like to purchase from you, so time is of the essence.
Quote
re: New deck built it late summer last year. what do I use.
Prep first with the Restore A Deck Kit and stain with TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Quote
New deck built it late summer last year. what do I use.
Hi

Help, I put up a new deck last year I would like to stain it and need to seal it. the would is just simple pressure treated wood. I live in NE ohio. Can you suggest what I should use?

Thanks,

Frank
Quote
re: DECK/HOT TUB/PICNIC TABLE STAIN
You cannot go over the Thompsons with another brand. You would have to remove it first. Look at the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color for a penetrating oil based stain but with the max UV protection of a semi-solid. You can use it on all of your wood as long as the wood is prepped well and free of old coatings.
Quote
deck/hot tub/picnic table stain
Im in Daytona Beach Area east coast Fl. Across the street from beach.3/4 sun upper/bottom large deck.
I used twp 120 it did not last 2 yrs. 1st coat left 1st yr,saw my foot prints on first cote.I stripped of thompsons waterproofer/wi th color honey gold.which never lasted. deck is 4yrs old.pressure treated.
What stain would get the most life,and what prep do I need to do.?

Second is my rails all around is with thompson waterproofing with color honey gold.It ready to restain with same. Or what could go over it to last?

Third Hot tub 12yrs old wood, used flood semi transparant a while ago(it was not in full sun like now) I cleaned it with tsp/bleach,read y to stain. Solid or semi stain,darker the better.For lasting? and what brand stain

Fourth is a pt new wood 2 picnic tables not yet ready to stain. What stain/solid or semi.what color to last and traffic please

Thanks Den M
Quote
-
You cannot apply anything on top of the Cabot to extend the life. You could stain with the Armstrong Clark in one of the semi-solid colors for better life.
Quote
-
very large deck stained with cabot timber oil color of jarrah.. looking for a longer lasting finish.. could we restain with cabot then apply something else for a more durable finish.. deck is too large and very high off the ground to be staining every year.
Quote
-
deck stained with cabot timber ooil in color of jarrah.. loved the color but not the wear... deck stained 2 yrs ago.. is there a product that lastest longer? deck is very large
Quote
-
Prep first with the Restore A Deck Kits and stain with the Armstrong Clark woo deck stain.
Quote
-
I live in SW Florida. I have a 1,000 sq ft 2nd story wrap around deck. It is old pressure treated lumber that is cracking and warping. I have to replace some boards that are rotting. I need to get this deck treated before the rainy season starts. I want to use a product I dont have to strip for re-treatment and that is durable in this climate. What do you suggest?
Quote
re: redwood deck
Make sure to prep by removing the old coating first. The can be done with the Restore A Deck Products. When the wood is prepped properly then I would suggest either TWP 1515 Honeytone or the Armstrong Clark in one of their light tints.
Quote
redwood deck
question. we have a new redwood deck, a little over 1 year old. We did have it professionally treated after it was completed. A couple of boards needed to be replaced b/c they had some cracks. This was in Dec. This time my husband will apply the finish on the new boards. We live in the San Francisco bay area, by the water, we get get sun and the elements. What clear stain, or the clearest stain would you recommend? If there is a store in our area zip code 94401 that would be helpful,otherwi se we can purchase it online. He is ready to apply as soon as possible now. thank you so much!

It has already been washed and is dried right now.
Quote
-
You can do either. If you were happy with the Timber Oil then you might want to stay with it. TWP may give a little better UV protection but it will still need to be redone every couple of years.
Quote
Timber Oil replacement
At the recommendation of many, we chose Woodrich Timber Oil as the stain for our new western cedar deck two years ago. As advertised, it was easy to apply and worked great for a new cedar deck. The deck is clearly in need of a new application and I was wondering how difficult it would be two switch to a more durable stain like TWP 1500 (or similar), or are we better staying with the Timber Oil? I'm unwilling to have to strip the deck at this point just to switch stains...just a good cleaning and staining.
Quote
-
Never heard of this before but it is possible that the soles of his shoes reacted with the brightener which is a mild citric acid.
Quote
tried the rag - went with the cleaner/brighte ner
Wow - you guys are awesome! My husband doesn't call back as fast as you guys respond to help questions! Especially impressive because you are one time zone earlier than I am.

I tried the wet rag, with no luck. It really looks like these shoe prints are a result of stain being removed from the wood. I decided to end the rag and get out the cleaner/brighte ner, and a deck brush, and I applied that this morning. It's still wet, but I guess I'll find out later if those weird shoe marks are gone. Have you heard of this before? It's very strange. We looked at the shoes last night, they were very clean. The cleaner/brighte ner must have reacted with the shoe rubber...?

I've learned my lesson...no staining decking surfaces first.
Quote
re: Second coat - questions
Not without removing the shoe prints first. Try wiping them off with a wet rag.
Quote
Second coat - questions
I've been looking at that decking for a few hours now. It is completely dry now - and I can see actual SHOE imprints here and there along with the wear and tear, courtesy of my husband's big feet. I can understand dragging marks from a ladder, but shoe tread marks? He was wearing running shoes with black tread. And these are nice footprints, no dragging.

Still recommend the second coat? This is so odd.
Quote
-
Yes you can do a very light coat now or you could just wait until Spring.
Quote
Decking problem continued
THe lighter marks on my decking look like the stain has been worn off - if this is the case, is it possible to just put another very light coat of the twp 1500 over the decking again? I can't believe this.

Also - when I did the wet on wet, the second coat that I applied was very light, and I wonder now if i messed that up based on what happened today.
Quote
Problem with the stained surface now
Sigh - I washed my pergola and balusters, and we used a pressure washer (an electric one), and now the decking looks worn. There are areas where the stain seems to be worn off. I thought at first perhaps it was just dirt, but I've been wiping it and that stuff seems to be permanent.

I wet down the decking with water before I started with the Restore a Deck products - but could this be the result of the cleaner maybe drying on the decking? I have no idea what is wrong. I used a heck of a lot of water. The most psi out of that pressure washer is 1800 psi, and the fan end of the wand was about 2 feet from every surface - never closer since I was paranoid.

Last week I did 2 coats, wet on wet, and it's been raining, the water has puddled on the decking. Do i need to do another coat of twp on the decking now? Can I do it now - or is this a job for next summer? And if it is a job for next summer, does this mean wet on wet again?

Very frustrated. Next time I will never do the decking first.
Quote
-
Pressure washing under 1200 psi will be fine and make sure to do long sweeping passes with the wand.
Quote
-
Great - how long should I wait?

Also - I was thinking that instead of scrubbing all those balusters (and losing my mind), I'd buy a pressure washer and use the cleaner-brighte ner on the verticals. I guess the pressure washer won't hurt things, so long as I keep it under 1200 psi? Last year for the very first staining, I actually hand scrubbed every single surface of the deck, including all the balusters.
Quote
-
Karen, only one coat on the verticals. The cleaner and brightener should not harm the stained areas. when you stain the verticals, make sure to tarp/cover the floor.
Quote
cleaning continued
I previously cleaned my pergola a few months ago with the restore a deck product but it has literally rained all summer and I never did do the staining or clean the verticals. I only did the horizontals because they really needed it. Last year we did 1 coat only of the twp. I'm aware I should have started at the top and worked down but life doesn't always go as planned. The weather is calling for a dry week next week and I wonder if I can do the rest.
Also I wonder if the verticals,
Especially the balusters need 2 coats via wet on wet.
Quote
use of cleaner
I am maintaining my deck-pergola in 2 stages. I cleaned and brightened the handrail and flooring and stained them yesterday. I still have a pergola and the balusters to clean-brighten and stain. The stain is twp 1500 and I did wet on wet application. I used restore a deck and I have a 2 year old pt pine deck. Can I use the restore a deck on the verticals and pergola in a few days or will this mess up the newly stained parts? How long should I wait?
Quote
-
You might need to strip it off and brighten for the prep next year.
Quote
-
can I wait until next spring, clean and brighten and then put another coat on?
Quote
re: How long can you wait
Wait? TWP is applied wet on wet. If you apply more now, it may not dry properly. You may need to strip off and start over.
Quote
How long can you wait
Stained a deck using TWP 1500 on Saturday. Made a mistake not going the full length of each board and now have overlap marks. How long can I wait before touching up with remaining product before I have to clean and brighten?
Quote
-
Lynda S, we are an online dealer and we ship to Canada. Look at the Armstrong Clark.
Quote
refinishing cedar garage door
I have just spent a lot of time cleaning and prepping my cedar garage door for restaining. I would like to use a
transparent or semi transparent oil based stain. I am looking for an oil based stain. Can you recommend a brand that I can purchase here in Canada, Ontario specifically. thanks.
Quote
re: Painted spindles and stained hand rails
The RAD stripper will not remove the painted spindles. No stripper will.
Quote
Painted spindles and stained hand rails
Can I use restore a deck stripper on my painted spindles? The hand rails are stained, along with the decking and steps, but the spindles are painted white, and I want to restain and repaint the entire porch.
Quote
-
JJ, 40 should be fine as long as it does not feel to rough to the surface. Use the 1500 or 100 Series.
Quote
-
Dana, use the TWP 100 Series or the Defy Extreme for the Pacific NW.
Quote
re: Do you know anything about the performance of the product SEAL-IT ?
It is a gimmick. May help some with decay but does nothing for UV protection or surface protection.
Quote
-
Do you know anything about the performance of the product SEAL-IT ?
Quote
-
I am planning on doing a first staining a new cedar deck. The deck has been bare for about 10 months. The wood is in good shape with only a few small patches of green mold. The mold washed off easily with Biowash SimpleWash. What stain would you recommend for a new cedar deck in the PNW that gets plenty of rain. I would like to use a semi transparent oil base.
Thanks for your advise.
Quote
-
I am removing a failing stain (SW deck scape)from my cedar deck in Seattle. The only way to remove it is by sanding and I am finding I need to use 40 grit. Can you advise whether I need to go over the surface with a finer grit prior to brightening and applying a stain? Or is it fine to proceed after just using the 40 grit.
I plan on restaining with either Twp 1500 or TimberOil. I am hoping that neither one of those will ever need to be sanded off. I plan on only needing to clean and restain every few years.
Quote
-
BH, look at the TWP stains for this. They will last 2-3 years.
Quote
-
I have a 12 x 14 pressure treated wood deck with bench seat on two sides and spindle railing and stairs. I just finished cleaning it and I'm trying to figure out the best stain/sealer to use and how much I need. Years ago I applied CWV but was not happy with it. It was cleaned off the best we could and then applied Thompson's water seal. I reapplied Thompson's in October 2011 but only to the flat surfaces and I'm overdue with putting something on the entire deck.
I am considering the Timber Oil. Does this sound like a good product for me to use for my deck? Should I use a deck brightener first? Also, there is a comment regarding "annual" maintenance. Does this mean that you need to apply the Timber Oil every year? I would prefer to get a minimum of 3 years out of whatever product I use. I see recommendations in other comments for TWP1500 or TWP100. Perhaps this is my best option since I would prefer to be able to simply clean and then reapply.
Since my deck is clean and ready to go I would appreciate your suggestions.
Thank you for your time.
Quote
re: Teak furniture?
Use a deck cleaner and pressure washer for prep and to restore wood. Stain with a penetrating oil based stain such as IPE Oil:

www.opwdecks.com/.../
Quote
Teak furniture?
A bit off topic, but perhaps you have some thoughts? We have a set of outdoor teak furniture. We bought into the "just let them weather and grey, they need no maintenance" advice. Big mistake. They are now badly weathered--surf ace rough, stained grey/black with lighter splotches (mold? lichen?). Any hope? Should I try sanding, then refinishing? Any suggestions for teak?
Quote
re: rental house I have in the Chicago area
For the prep use the Restore A Deck Kit and pressure washing:
www.opwdecks.com/.../

For the stain try TWP 1500 Series:
www.opwdecks.com/.../

You will need:
-RAD 300 Kit for prep
-One 5 gallon Pail of the TWP
Quote
mr
I am writing about a rental house I have in the Chicago area. The wood deck has not had any maintenance for over 6 years, but I am told it is in "pretty good shape." I believe the last application was either a stain or more likely a sealer. Just not sure. I intend on using a power washer in the restoring process, but just don't know what products to use in what order. I would appreciate you giving me, if possible, a step by step method I can use to restore the deck. I need which of your products and in what order and how to use. Of course I am looking for the most durable and attractive deck I can have. Thank you. I will be placing an order with you as soon as I receive your answer. The deck is about 20' x 20' with 8 or 10 steps.
Quote
-
Kim, not sure on this as we only sell semi-transparen t and not paints.
Quote
-
I am trying to restore an old weathered outdoor sign that is located in the wetlands. The sign is 4ft. by 8ft. in size. It was originally stained but did not have a protective sealer over it. I am not sure what steps to take and which method I should use in refinishing it. I am thinking about using a combination of materials, first by starting with a wood cleaner, then sanding, after that I could use a primer followed by using sign paint for the area that has lettering and using acrylic paints for the illustration area also I would stain the trim and posts and wanted to use a protective sealer that I could reapply regularly so the so the illustrated image would last for a long time . Could you please help me ? Do you have a sealer that would work for that and do you have any suggestions on how I should do this or is it better to use all stains and if so would I be able to get a large variety of colors in smaller amounts ? Thank You !
Quote
-
Eddie, yes you should clean and brighten for prep. That is rust around the nails and will most likely come back after a rain.
Quote
Info
I have a 30 year old cedar deck that I just sanded after 30 years of failed stains. My question is, do I need both the cleaner and the brightener if it has been sanded? I do see some tannin spots, especially around the nail holes (didn't have screws 30 years ago?). Thanks.
Quote
-
JL Smith, the extreme clear is penetrating. Prep first with the Restore A Deck Stripper to remove the Superdeck and use the RAD brightener when done.
Quote
Homeowner
Is Defy Extreme Clear Stain considered a penetrating product or a film forming stain? I have a cedar deck that is under snow load for 3 or 4 months a year. I previously used SuperDeck and it held up fairly well, but I am looking for a little more protection. I prefer a clear sealer. The deck does get a lot of sun in the summer. Any recommendations for preparing the deck for Defy Extreme Clear Stain?
Quote