Wood Deck Restoration PICAsk any questions regarding exterior wood and deck restoration. Questions can relate to wood fences, wood decks, wood homes, etc. If you have a question on your wood project then this is the best place to ask.

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    James · 06/11/2020
    My deck previously has semi-transparent stain (last application would be more than 10 years ago). Pretty sure it would have been oil-based (I'm in Canada, but this was more than 10 years ago). I've pressured washed and used deck cleaner available locally. I did not use a chemical stripper. I want to go with semi-transparent again, probably just a little darker (cedar color) this time.

    Two questions:
    1) Picture attached. Does this look like enough prep? Or do I need to go back and use a stripper (which I did not use) or clean and brighten more? The wood does absorb water.

    2) Do all your products ship to Canada, or are some not available due to local VOC rules?
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    Paul · 06/01/2020
    Hello. I am refinishing my redwood/cedar outdoor deck. I live in Wyoming where the elevation is 5,200'. The deck was finished with a solid dark brown stain. I sanded everything down to just the bare wood. Do I need to treat this as a "new wood" and wait 2-3 months from when I sanded it, then use brightener and stain?
    Or should I brighten it now and stain it?

    I did a test where I sprinkled some water on top of the wood. It did not bead up and was absorbed by the wood within minutes. I was told this was a good way to check if the wood is ready to stain?
    Thank you!
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      The Sealer Store · 06/01/2020
      Wait a month, clean and brighten for final prep, and then stain.
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    Zach G. · 05/15/2020
    Other pictures that didn't attach --

    Thanks!
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    Zach G. · 05/15/2020
    In the process of restoring and staining my deck in New York. First off, just wanted to say THANK YOU for the articles, tips, and discussion sections you (The Sealer Store) have provided. They have been extremely helpful and I would be so lost without them. I look forward to purchasing all my materials (stain, cleaners, brighteners, and applicators) from you as a massive thank you.

    I have tried to research as much as I can so that you do not have to be redundant. However, these are the questions I still have and couldn’t find answers to. I have provided several pictures at the bottom for reference.

    Possible Helpful Information
    Location = Long Island, New York
    Deck Exposure = 8-10 Hours of Direct Sunlight / per day
    Type of Wood = Not sure (Maybe you can tell by the pictures)
    Work Completed So Far = The only thing I have done is power wash the deck. I used a 2000 PSI RYOBI power washer with a 40 degree tip and tried my best to stay 6-12 in. from surface.

    Remaining Questions
    1. Deck Cleaner or Stripper: I recently moved to this house — I know the deck is about 20 years old, but I don’t know if it has had a previous stain on it (maybe you can tell from the pictures). When I do the water test, it absorbs and does not bead up. Therefore, I do not need a deck stripper and can use a deck cleaner, correct?

    2. Unknown Substance: In two of the pictures (6 & 7.jpg), you can see that there is an unknown black substance on some of the balusters. It would not come off with the power washer. I am hoping that it will come off with the deck cleaning, but if it doesn’t, are there any specific remedies you think I should try to remove it? If not, is there anything I can do besides staining over it?

    3. Sanding: There are some areas that the wood has become frayed and fuzzy most likely due to too much force with the power washer (unfortunately, didn’t read your power washing article before starting). I would like to sand the wood down before staining. I know that you recommend 60 grit so that the wood can remain porous, but I have two sanding questions. 3a) What type of sander do you recommend (I have an orbital sander or pole sander available)? 3b) When in the process do I sand? After the deck cleaning and brightening process or before?

    4. Stain: Is there a certain stain you recommend given my location and sunlight exposure listed above? I was on planning on going with one of the high quality stains you mentioned (Armstrong Clark or TWP), but is one better than the other, or is one specific Armstrong Clark/TWP stain better than the other, given the type of wood you see in the pictures, location (New York), and sunlight exposure (8-10 hours/day)?

    5. Stain Applicators: Based on the deck in the pictures, what stain applicators do you recommend? Brushes and stain pads for the balusters, and deck mop for the boards?

    6. Overall Process: With all the knowledge I have gained, this was my plan for the remainder of the project. Am I missing anything or doing anything incorrectly? Any additional tips you think are important to note are greatly appreciated. Cannot THANK YOU ENOUGH for the resources and insight. Can’t wait to order all the materials!

    Step 1 — Deck Cleaner (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) RAD Cleaner
    - Wet deck before
    - Mix properly
    - Apply with pump sprayer
    - Use deck scrub brush
    - Let sit for 5-15 min.
    - Rinse with power washer lightly (40 degree tip, 8-12 in. Away) with the grain

    *Immediately After (Wood Still Wet) Proceed to Step 2*

    Step 2 - Deck Brightener (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) RAD Brightener
    - Mix properly
    - Apply with pump sprayer
    - No need for deck scrub brush
    - Let sit for 5-15 min.
    - Rinse with power washer lightly (40 degree tip, 8-12 in. Away) with the grain

    *Wait 48 Hours for Deck to Dry*

    Step 3 - Staining (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) TWP or Armstrong Clark Stain
    - Cover concrete, pavers, house, and outlets
    - Apply to verticals first and then horizontals
    - Make sure to mix stain
    - Apply stain evenly and with the grain (make sure it takes/absorbs and doesn’t puddle)

    *Wait 48 Hours for Deck to Dry*

    Pictures --
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      The Sealer Store · 05/15/2020
      1. Clean and brighten.
      2. Not sure what that is and if it will come off with stripping or cleaning.
      3. Use a floor buffer and sanding pad. 60-80.
      4. Try TWP 1500 Series.
      5. Yes, correct.
      6. Yes, all correct.
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        Zach G. · 05/15/2020
        Awesome. Thanks for the reply. In regards to question 2 and the unknown substance, do you think I should try cleaner first, and if it doesn't work, try hitting it with some deck stripper?
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          The Sealer Store · 05/15/2020
          You may have to sand it off. Not sure if the stripper will remove it.
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    Gloria Mac · 03/08/2020
    I have an old deck, about 30 years old, that needs dire attention (new owners). Old stain has worn away or is peeling off the floor boards. Not so bad on the railings. Need to replace some rotted areas (not too many) and the top railings are painted green. My questions are:
    1. What's the best way to clean/strip this old deck?
    2. How do I deal with the green top rails? Strip to bare wood?
    3. Do I need to sand everything after cleaning.
    4. What's the best stain for an old deck with a maximum life span?
    I did some research and Defy Extreme opaque stain has risen to the top of my list but want expert advice before I begin. I want to do this right the first time.
    I appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
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    Sherry A · 01/08/2020
    Replaced all boards on dock and ramp to dock. Late 2017. Let it dry followed stain application directions, applied 2 coats. Had dock cleaned in 2019 because of black mildew (?) on boards. Wood looks dry, not repelling moisture and here is how it looks now. Any ideas? Please don’t tell me we need to restain every year ?
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    Jim Bailey · 07/19/2019
    I have a cedar deck I’ve used DEFY Cedar tone stain the area where the sun hits the most is blotchy what is the best way to handle that situation
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      The Sealer Store · 07/19/2019
      Use a deck cleaner and pressure washer for the step. Apply another coat when it dries.
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    Alla W. · 07/17/2019
    I just had my mahogany patio power washed and want to restore and protect it. Based on my research, I will go with the Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent formula mahogany color. Do I still need to sand or strip the patio, or can I just apply the stain to what we have now? I realize that the area typically cover by the front door mat is of different color due to less wear and tear -- will it get evened out after applying the stain? Thank you!
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    Dan B · 07/12/2019
    Will the deck cleaner/brightener damage paint in house siding? I have Hardie Plank siding.

    thank you
    Dan
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    Cindy W · 11/12/2018
    HI,
    I have a screened in porch with ipe wood flooring (untreated). Painters recently scraped a shelf across the wood and created indentations. They also got a lot of paint and drywall on it that is not coming out. Any tips on how to get rid of the cracks? Can we sand it? Should we seal it once it is fixed (if it is fixable?)
    We also have the ipe wood on a raised deck and steps. We plan to clean it next spring? What is the best way to get the mildew out and bring it back to life? Also, should we then seal it? We want to be as low maintenance as possible. We live near a small lake (not sure if that impacts the answer)
    Thanks for your help.
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      The Sealer Store · 11/12/2018
      You would need to power sand all the wood to even out this and to remove the imperfections. Once done, stain with the Defy Hardwood Stain: https://www.opwdecks.com/defyhardwood.htm
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        cindy w · 11/13/2018
        Thank you. Should we do this to the deck and steps outside and use the same product to seal it as your recommending for the screened in porch. The ipe wood that is outside has already grayed. Would power sanding bring back its original color easily, or would that be impossible with all the posts and other hard to reach areas like on steps?
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    RichardT · 10/06/2018
    I have a mahogany deck full 1" boards x 3 1/2" wide. I just replaced a portion of the deck which was rotted with new mahogany. This portion of the deck is exposed to all the elements. The other part of the deck is under a 2nd floor porch. It was stained with a reddish stain, which I just sanded to bare wood with 60 grit paper. So I have new and old (20 years) wood that I would like to match when I m done.
    1. Should I also sand the new wood?
    2. Should I leave all of it bare through the winter? or should I treat the old and new wood differently?
    3. What stain or product should I use with the bare wood. Should I treat the new and the old wood differently?

    Richard
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      The Sealer Store · 10/07/2018
      1. No.
      2. Yes. Clean and brighten all the wood in Spring.
      3. Defy Hardwood Stain or Armstrong Clark.
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    Andrea · 10/01/2018
    Do you recommend any carpenter bee additives for Armstrong Clark stains?
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    Evan P · 09/15/2018
    I have stripped ( using a scraper) and sanded ( 36 grit then 120 grit) my acrylic painted deck down to the wood. Do I need to do anything else to the boards before I start staining? Any type of conditioner, brightener, stain prep ( I am planning on using an oil based stain ) or wood wash or anything? I believe the wood is pine and I have saved about 95% of the boards. You can see in the photo the section I have completed sanding and the boards that are next to be done.
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    Jim Bond · 09/12/2018
    We had a builder build our new deck 12 months ago. We were cleaning the wood in preparation of staining. However, every time we use a cleaning there is this white gummy substance that comes out of the wood. We contacted the builder who says this is due to the wood being bad (saturated with sap) and stated he wouldn't stand behind it; he told use to call the lumber company he bought it from. If they will not stand behind this product is there anything we can do with this wood to salvage our deck?
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      The Sealer Store · 09/13/2018
      It has nothing to do with bad wood but is oxidation of the wood fibers from the UV. This happens when exposed for a year and would happen to all wood types. Use a deck cleaner and pressure wash until all wood fibers are removed. Brighten the wood after. You may then have some "fuzzies" to the wood that will need to be sanded off after.
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    Todd · 09/09/2018
    I bought armstrong natural oak semi trans i have clean and brighten the deck if i need to restain in a year do i need to strip the deck first or can i clean and restain with the armstrong stain
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    sean fay · 06/26/2018
    what is the best cleaning product for a composite deck , to remove algae, black spots and mildew
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    BWood · 06/08/2018
    We live on the lake in cottage country NE of Toronto and are staining our 6 year old cedar decks for the first time. I see that TWP, AC, and Defy are all recommended brands. Which would be best for our climate? We also have a 480 SqFt Dock over the water and I’m interested in the Defy Marine product. Is that the best product for the dock or would the best dock product do just as well?
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      The Sealer Store · 06/08/2018
      It does not have to be a Marine stain but the Defy Marine would work well here. All of these brands are excellent and not one is better than the rest. Go with the one you like. :)
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    sean · 05/25/2018
    i live in iowa have a ceder wood deck , that needs some work i have black metal spindles in the railing my 4x4 look good from being stained about three years ago, but my floor is showing signs of ware, and the stain repellant is peeling in some spots, don't have a lot of money to spend . what would you suggest i do , to try and have a good looking deck for the next couple years. thank you scs
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    Charles · 04/21/2018
    We have a treated wood fence that was stained about 10 years ago. What should we use to prep for restaining?
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      The Sealer Store · 04/21/2018
      Hello, how to prep depends on the current condition and the brand/type of stain that was used before. Could you post a picture?
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    Carl Zink · 11/01/2017
    We have a 10 year old wood deck, that was previously painted. The paint is beginning to flake in large quantities. should we repaint, or sand and stain? What are your recommendations? CZ