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Ask any questions regarding exterior wood and deck restoration. Questions can relate to wood fences, wood decks, wood homes, etc. If you have a question on your wood project then this is the best place to ask.
I have Cedar Shingles with a brown semi-solid Cabot stain that was done about 8 years ago. I need to recoat and I would like to use a solid stain. Do I need to strip the shingles using a stripper, or can I use a cleaner/brightener and just use a brown solid stain on top?
We would strip as much as possible and then brighten. You would have better adhesion this way.
I put Sherwin Williams solid stain on 15 yr old bare wood decking 2 years ago. It is now peeling off in places where my plant pots sat on top of the stained deck. How should I prepare my deck before applying more solid stain in these worn areas?
https://www.opwdecks.com/rad-paint-concrete-paver-sealer-stripper.htm
Our deck is in good shape where it’s covered, but mildewed and worn where it’s not. It’s very uneven wear. Can we clean the entire deck, and then brighten just in the areas where it’s rough, or should we strip and brighten the entire thing?
Strip and brighen all so it is even when you recoat.
Does the Brightener “seal” in any way? How soon after brightening do we need to put stain on? We’re completing this project at a second home and won’t be back for several weekends.
I think we are in for a lot of work and might need to just sand. The previous owners used Sikkens Cetol Log and Siding stain on the two decks. We’ve heard it’s notoriously difficult to remove using stripper. The more “research” we do the worse the project looks. Is there a phone number to call for advice?
Post pics for prep advice.
This photo is deck after partial power washing
Strip and Brighten with this kit:
https://www.opwdecks.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.htm
Use both Stripper additives:
https://www.opwdecks.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.htm
This photo shows condition if best parts of deck, no power washing
No, the brightener is not a sealer. Stain within 2 weeks of prep.
I am having all my deck boards replaced with “kiln dried cedar” which is not treated cedar. I was told I could stain kiln dried right away. Should I likewise wait 3 mos b4 staining?
You need to wait 1-2 months for kiln dried and prep with the Restore A Deck cleaner and brightener before staining.
I have a deck that goes over a koi pond. because of that, I can’t power wash and am afraid to use cleaners that might harm fish. It had a Benjamin Moore Arborcoat on it before ( I think). I don’t know how to proceed
Sand with 60-80 grit for prep.
What cleaner; what sealer do I need to tackle an ipe deck
Prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/rad-300.htm
Stain: https://www.opwdecks.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon.htm
Hi there. We had IPE installed as wood panelling on our house 5 years ago. I believe what was used on it was Ready Seal Ext base stain and sealer and Verithane ultimate spare urethane oil base varnish. It has not been treated since. We noticed some white areas and realized that we need to treat the wood. In the pics, the vertical piece shows the white (some areas were way more pronounced) and the horizontal wood has been sanded some (most of the surface area has been sanded now). It’s obvious from your info here that mistakes were made from the beginning. From what I am reading here, it seems like we should use the stripper, power wash, use the brightener, power rinse, then apply the correct stain for IPE and maintain at an interval of 9-18 months. Will that work for this situation? If any of it sounds iffy for us, should we test an area with the stripper first? Any other suggestions you have will be very helpful. So glad we found your website. Thanks!
Do you have a polyurethane over the Ready Seal? If so that needs to come off and you cannot strip a poly. It will have to be power sanded to remove.
(Also posted this under the general Need Help Category, by mistake).
I bought a house which was built in 2002 and has an IPE deck. The previous owner used Messmer’s UV Plus clear annually. I did nothing from the time I bought the house in 2016 until last fall. At that time I applied a clear water based sealer that I purchased at a big box store. This summer we decided to add 7 foot wide steps to the deck since it was completely enclosed and had no outside access. The new IPE steps are a beautiful warm brown, and the existing deck was an ugly ashy gray. So we decided to clean the deck in hopes of restoring the original beauty. At the advice of Messmer customer service we first applied Behr Premium Stain stripper (he felt that the cleaner would not penetrate the sealer), and then 2 applications of Messmer Deck Cleaner Part A. It still looked dingy, and there seemed to be a gooey reside from the stripper. So I tried power washing. It got off most of the residue with a great deal of effort, but left some markings all over the surface. I am now trying a light sanding and that seems to be cleaning up the marks but it is still a yellowish color. I tried the Messmer’s Deck Brightener Part B in a small area, but it does not seem to improve it much. SO I have two questions:
Question #1: How can I make the deck and the steps match and both be the warm brown like the new IPE steps?
Question #2: Going forward once I am finished, what annual method should I use to keep the look fresh?
Post some pictures.
Here are some pics.
You have pressure washing damage marks from your tip and those will show through and be enhanced when stained. The only way to remove these fully is to power sand all. That would also help with evening out the difference between new and old wood. Once done, clean and brighten all apply the Armstrong Clark stain in one of the 3 hardwood colors. Redo annually with same prep and stain.https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
I did just sand it all with a small electric orbital sander. I guess I did not get it good enough. Thanks for the info.
BTW, what do you recommend that I use to clean and brighten? I have used up the Messmer’s Part A, but still have the Part B.
https://www.opwdecks.com/best-selling-cleaner.htm
Quick final question. You said to stain after clean and brighten. We have done that and it looks great. Do we need to apply any type of sealer or other product over the stain?
No, you cannot top coat over a deck stain.
how do I know if sanding is necessary before I stain my deck (after I prepare with RAD stripper and brightener)? thanks
No need to sand unless smoothing some splinters, etc.
Thank! Also – I am removing a solid light sand coloured water based stain. Can I use oil based semi transparent gray stain after completing stripper with booster/brightener steps?
RAD Stripper will not remove a solid stain fully. It does explain this on the ordering page that it will not remove a solid stain. You can still use it to remove some or most but power sanding will be required to get it off fully.
I live in Connecticut and just had a new 20 x 15 foot pressure treated wood deck installed with 2 x 6″ lumber. Installer recommended that the following needs to be done in the summer of 2021. moisture reading, power wash with bleach, neutralizer to neutralize the bleach, sand entire deck then apply oil based stain (white) followed by latex stain (white). Does this sound correct to you? All your other answers to questions do not mention sanding.
Sorry, but we offer advice based on the stain products we sell and we do not offer any solid white stains, only semi-transparent colors and they are not the same for prep and application.
3 years ago I applied Armstrong Clark transparent natural tone stain to my pine deck. I would like to apply this year new coat but semi-transparent most likely driftwood color.
What should be the procedure in my case to prep the deck and will 1 coat be sufficient?
Thanks,
Strip and brighen for prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper.htm
You may need two coats.
We have a well-weathered cedar deck attached to a home we purchased last year on Vancouver Island. Most of the previous treatment has worn completely away, although there are small sections of stain remaining in places. I assume a stripper, brightener then stain will be the way to go. For some reason I can’t understand, I believe using the same manufacturer’s stripper, brighter and stain product will minimize my chances of screwing something up and have narrowed my choices down to Restore-A-Deck or Defy products.
– Is there any validity to my belief that using Defy prep product(s) with Defy stain would be better than using R-A-D prep product(s) with Defy stain?
– Is there a reason you offer R-A-D prep products but not their stain?
We typically do suggest using the same brand of prep as the stain. We do offer the rAD Stain on this site but you can order it on the RAD Site. https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain.html
Thank you! Have you found either (R-A-D or Defy) to hold up better over time in wetter conditions like Vancouver Island? I like the idea of being able to do a “wet” application of the R-A-D although the postings seem to give Defy a slightly better rocked of longevity.
No, they will last about the same.
Thanks again. We’ll make our decision and get an order in before the end o’ week
My deck previously has semi-transparent stain (last application would be more than 10 years ago). Pretty sure it would have been oil-based (I’m in Canada, but this was more than 10 years ago). I’ve pressured washed and used deck cleaner available locally. I did not use a chemical stripper. I want to go with semi-transparent again, probably just a little darker (cedar color) this time.
Two questions:
1) Picture attached. Does this look like enough prep? Or do I need to go back and use a stripper (which I did not use) or clean and brighten more? The wood does absorb water.
2) Do all your products ship to Canada, or are some not available due to local VOC rules?
1. No, you need to strip and brighten for prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper.htm
2. No, use the TWP 200 Series: https://www.opwdecks.com/twp-200-series.htm
Hello. I am refinishing my redwood/cedar outdoor deck. I live in Wyoming where the elevation is 5,200′. The deck was finished with a solid dark brown stain. I sanded everything down to just the bare wood. Do I need to treat this as a “new wood” and wait 2-3 months from when I sanded it, then use brightener and stain?
Or should I brighten it now and stain it?
I did a test where I sprinkled some water on top of the wood. It did not bead up and was absorbed by the wood within minutes. I was told this was a good way to check if the wood is ready to stain?
Thank you!
Wait a month, clean and brighten for final prep, and then stain.
Other pictures that didn’t attach —
Thanks!
In the process of restoring and staining my deck in New York. First off, just wanted to say THANK YOU for the articles, tips, and discussion sections you (The Sealer Store) have provided. They have been extremely helpful and I would be so lost without them. I look forward to purchasing all my materials (stain, cleaners, brighteners, and applicators) from you as a massive thank you.
I have tried to research as much as I can so that you do not have to be redundant. However, these are the questions I still have and couldn’t find answers to. I have provided several pictures at the bottom for reference.
Possible Helpful Information
Location = Long Island, New York
Deck Exposure = 8-10 Hours of Direct Sunlight / per day
Type of Wood = Not sure (Maybe you can tell by the pictures)
Work Completed So Far = The only thing I have done is power wash the deck. I used a 2000 PSI RYOBI power washer with a 40 degree tip and tried my best to stay 6-12 in. from surface.
Remaining Questions
1. Deck Cleaner or Stripper: I recently moved to this house — I know the deck is about 20 years old, but I don’t know if it has had a previous stain on it (maybe you can tell from the pictures). When I do the water test, it absorbs and does not bead up. Therefore, I do not need a deck stripper and can use a deck cleaner, correct?
2. Unknown Substance: In two of the pictures (6 & 7.jpg), you can see that there is an unknown black substance on some of the balusters. It would not come off with the power washer. I am hoping that it will come off with the deck cleaning, but if it doesn’t, are there any specific remedies you think I should try to remove it? If not, is there anything I can do besides staining over it?
3. Sanding: There are some areas that the wood has become frayed and fuzzy most likely due to too much force with the power washer (unfortunately, didn’t read your power washing article before starting). I would like to sand the wood down before staining. I know that you recommend 60 grit so that the wood can remain porous, but I have two sanding questions. 3a) What type of sander do you recommend (I have an orbital sander or pole sander available)? 3b) When in the process do I sand? After the deck cleaning and brightening process or before?
4. Stain: Is there a certain stain you recommend given my location and sunlight exposure listed above? I was on planning on going with one of the high quality stains you mentioned (Armstrong Clark or TWP), but is one better than the other, or is one specific Armstrong Clark/TWP stain better than the other, given the type of wood you see in the pictures, location (New York), and sunlight exposure (8-10 hours/day)?
5. Stain Applicators: Based on the deck in the pictures, what stain applicators do you recommend? Brushes and stain pads for the balusters, and deck mop for the boards?
6. Overall Process: With all the knowledge I have gained, this was my plan for the remainder of the project. Am I missing anything or doing anything incorrectly? Any additional tips you think are important to note are greatly appreciated. Cannot THANK YOU ENOUGH for the resources and insight. Can’t wait to order all the materials!
Step 1 — Deck Cleaner (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) RAD Cleaner
– Wet deck before
– Mix properly
– Apply with pump sprayer
– Use deck scrub brush
– Let sit for 5-15 min.
– Rinse with power washer lightly (40 degree tip, 8-12 in. Away) with the grain
*Immediately After (Wood Still Wet) Proceed to Step 2*
Step 2 – Deck Brightener (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) RAD Brightener
– Mix properly
– Apply with pump sprayer
– No need for deck scrub brush
– Let sit for 5-15 min.
– Rinse with power washer lightly (40 degree tip, 8-12 in. Away) with the grain
*Wait 48 Hours for Deck to Dry*
Step 3 – Staining (Follow manufacture’s directions for all steps) TWP or Armstrong Clark Stain
– Cover concrete, pavers, house, and outlets
– Apply to verticals first and then horizontals
– Make sure to mix stain
– Apply stain evenly and with the grain (make sure it takes/absorbs and doesn’t puddle)
*Wait 48 Hours for Deck to Dry*
Pictures —
1. Clean and brighten.
2. Not sure what that is and if it will come off with stripping or cleaning.
3. Use a floor buffer and sanding pad. 60-80.
4. Try TWP 1500 Series.
5. Yes, correct.
6. Yes, all correct.
Awesome. Thanks for the reply. In regards to question 2 and the unknown substance, do you think I should try cleaner first, and if it doesn’t work, try hitting it with some deck stripper?
You may have to sand it off. Not sure if the stripper will remove it.
I have an old deck, about 30 years old, that needs dire attention (new owners). Old stain has worn away or is peeling off the floor boards. Not so bad on the railings. Need to replace some rotted areas (not too many) and the top railings are painted green. My questions are:
1. What’s the best way to clean/strip this old deck?
2. How do I deal with the green top rails? Strip to bare wood?
3. Do I need to sand everything after cleaning.
4. What’s the best stain for an old deck with a maximum life span?
I did some research and Defy Extreme opaque stain has risen to the top of my list but want expert advice before I begin. I want to do this right the first time.
I appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
You will not be able to strip the floors and railings as the coatings you have are not fully strippable. You will have to sand this to remove it all. Once fully removed, try the Armstrong Clark in a semi-solid color: https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
Replaced all boards on dock and ramp to dock. Late 2017. Let it dry followed stain application directions, applied 2 coats. Had dock cleaned in 2019 because of black mildew (?) on boards. Wood looks dry, not repelling moisture and here is how it looks now. Any ideas? Please don’t tell me we need to restain every year ?
Strip and brighten the wood for the prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper.htm
Use a better stain brand that will last 2-3 years. Try the TWP: https://www.opwdecks.com/twp-stains.htm
I have a cedar deck I’ve used DEFY Cedar tone stain the area where the sun hits the most is blotchy what is the best way to handle that situation
Use a deck cleaner and pressure washer for the step. Apply another coat when it dries.
I just had my mahogany patio power washed and want to restore and protect it. Based on my research, I will go with the Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent formula mahogany color. Do I still need to sand or strip the patio, or can I just apply the stain to what we have now? I realize that the area typically cover by the front door mat is of different color due to less wear and tear — will it get evened out after applying the stain? Thank you!
Looks good to stain and should even out.
Will the deck cleaner/brightener damage paint in house siding? I have Hardie Plank siding.
thank you
Dan
No, it should not.
HI,
I have a screened in porch with ipe wood flooring (untreated). Painters recently scraped a shelf across the wood and created indentations. They also got a lot of paint and drywall on it that is not coming out. Any tips on how to get rid of the cracks? Can we sand it? Should we seal it once it is fixed (if it is fixable?)
We also have the ipe wood on a raised deck and steps. We plan to clean it next spring? What is the best way to get the mildew out and bring it back to life? Also, should we then seal it? We want to be as low maintenance as possible. We live near a small lake (not sure if that impacts the answer)
Thanks for your help.
You would need to power sand all the wood to even out this and to remove the imperfections. Once done, stain with the Defy Hardwood Stain: https://www.opwdecks.com/defyhardwood.htm
Thank you. Should we do this to the deck and steps outside and use the same product to seal it as your recommending for the screened in porch. The ipe wood that is outside has already grayed. Would power sanding bring back its original color easily, or would that be impossible with all the posts and other hard to reach areas like on steps?
Yes, that is correct. Do all wood.
I have a mahogany deck full 1″ boards x 3 1/2″ wide. I just replaced a portion of the deck which was rotted with new mahogany. This portion of the deck is exposed to all the elements. The other part of the deck is under a 2nd floor porch. It was stained with a reddish stain, which I just sanded to bare wood with 60 grit paper. So I have new and old (20 years) wood that I would like to match when I m done.
1. Should I also sand the new wood?
2. Should I leave all of it bare through the winter? or should I treat the old and new wood differently?
3. What stain or product should I use with the bare wood. Should I treat the new and the old wood differently?
Richard
1. No.
2. Yes. Clean and brighten all the wood in Spring.
3. Defy Hardwood Stain or Armstrong Clark.
Do you recommend any carpenter bee additives for Armstrong Clark stains?
Better to spray for the bees after the stain has dried.
I have stripped ( using a scraper) and sanded ( 36 grit then 120 grit) my acrylic painted deck down to the wood. Do I need to do anything else to the boards before I start staining? Any type of conditioner, brightener, stain prep ( I am planning on using an oil based stain ) or wood wash or anything? I believe the wood is pine and I have saved about 95% of the boards. You can see in the photo the section I have completed sanding and the boards that are next to be done.
Use a deck cleaner and a wood brightener for the final prep.
We had a builder build our new deck 12 months ago. We were cleaning the wood in preparation of staining. However, every time we use a cleaning there is this white gummy substance that comes out of the wood. We contacted the builder who says this is due to the wood being bad (saturated with sap) and stated he wouldn’t stand behind it; he told use to call the lumber company he bought it from. If they will not stand behind this product is there anything we can do with this wood to salvage our deck?
It has nothing to do with bad wood but is oxidation of the wood fibers from the UV. This happens when exposed for a year and would happen to all wood types. Use a deck cleaner and pressure wash until all wood fibers are removed. Brighten the wood after. You may then have some “fuzzies” to the wood that will need to be sanded off after.
I bought armstrong natural oak semi trans i have clean and brighten the deck if i need to restain in a year do i need to strip the deck first or can i clean and restain with the armstrong stain
Clean and restain.
what is the best cleaning product for a composite deck , to remove algae, black spots and mildew
See this link: https://www.opwdecks.com/defy-composite-deck-products.htm
We live on the lake in cottage country NE of Toronto and are staining our 6 year old cedar decks for the first time. I see that TWP, AC, and Defy are all recommended brands. Which would be best for our climate? We also have a 480 SqFt Dock over the water and I’m interested in the Defy Marine product. Is that the best product for the dock or would the best dock product do just as well?
It does not have to be a Marine stain but the Defy Marine would work well here. All of these brands are excellent and not one is better than the rest. Go with the one you like. :)
i live in iowa have a ceder wood deck , that needs some work i have black metal spindles in the railing my 4×4 look good from being stained about three years ago, but my floor is showing signs of ware, and the stain repellant is peeling in some spots, don’t have a lot of money to spend . what would you suggest i do , to try and have a good looking deck for the next couple years. thank you scs
Strip and brighten for the prep to remove the current coating. Sand if needed. Stain with the TWP 100 Series: https://www.opwdecks.com/twpwoodsealers.htm
We have a treated wood fence that was stained about 10 years ago. What should we use to prep for restaining?
Hello, how to prep depends on the current condition and the brand/type of stain that was used before. Could you post a picture?
We have a 10 year old wood deck, that was previously painted. The paint is beginning to flake in large quantities. should we repaint, or sand and stain? What are your recommendations? CZ
It will continue to peel if you repaint. Best to sand it off fully and then go with a penetrating stain that does not peel.
Thanks for your time & expertise. What type/brand stains do you recommend, relative to northern Michigan?
Once you remove, use a penetrating coating like the TWP 100 Series:
https://www.opwdecks.com/twpwoodsealers.htm
[quote name=”Bruce V”]Hi,
I recently purchased a house in the new england with a newish but unstained deck (pressure treated wood/some mold and mildew observable). I would like to protect the deck for the winter but we are undecided on what color to stain it. What is best to do? Just clean it, clean it and stain it with a transparent or light colored stain, leave it as is until the spring? Thanks for any advice.[/quote]
If you are unsure on the color, you can wait until Spring to clean and stain.
Hi,
I recently purchased a house in the new england with a newish but unstained deck (pressure treated wood/some mold and mildew observable). I would like to protect the deck for the winter but we are undecided on what color to stain it. What is best to do? Just clean it, clean it and stain it with a transparent or light colored stain, leave it as is until the spring? Thanks for any advice.
[quote name=”Chris A”][quote name=”TheSealerStore”][quote name=”Chris A”]Hi,
I have just purchased a house with a fairly old, unloved deck -it’s composite floor and wood railings. I expect I need a cleaner and brightener on the composite. DEFY seem to have a dedicated composite product … would this give a better result than the general restore-a-deck packages? Also do I need something different for the wood pieces? I’d prefer to use the same process & products on all of the deck where possible for ease, unless that would significantly affect the results.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Just use the RAD kits for all. The Defy product is a different label of their Wood Cleaner, not a different formula.[/quote]
Great thanks. And apologies if this is a stupid follow up, but is this all I need? Or after cleaning/brightening do I then need to apply a sealer for the composite (I see DEFY have one) and a stain for the wood pieces (again DEFY)? Or would you recommend something else, or is the RAD package all I need?[/quote]
The RAD kit is the prep. You should stain the rails with the Defy Extreme and you can seal the composite with the Defy Composite Sealer.
[quote name=”TheSealerStore”][quote name=”Chris A”]Hi,
I have just purchased a house with a fairly old, unloved deck -it’s composite floor and wood railings. I expect I need a cleaner and brightener on the composite. DEFY seem to have a dedicated composite product … would this give a better result than the general restore-a-deck packages? Also do I need something different for the wood pieces? I’d prefer to use the same process & products on all of the deck where possible for ease, unless that would significantly affect the results.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Just use the RAD kits for all. The Defy product is a different label of their Wood Cleaner, not a different formula.[/quote]
Great thanks. And apologies if this is a stupid follow up, but is this all I need? Or after cleaning/brightening do I then need to apply a sealer for the composite (I see DEFY have one) and a stain for the wood pieces (again DEFY)? Or would you recommend something else, or is the RAD package all I need?
[quote name=”Chris A”]Hi,
I have just purchased a house with a fairly old, unloved deck -it’s composite floor and wood railings. I expect I need a cleaner and brightener on the composite. DEFY seem to have a dedicated composite product … would this give a better result than the general restore-a-deck packages? Also do I need something different for the wood pieces? I’d prefer to use the same process & products on all of the deck where possible for ease, unless that would significantly affect the results.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance.[/quote]
Just use the RAD kits for all. The Defy product is a different label of their Wood Cleaner, not a different formula.
Hi,
I have just purchased a house with a fairly old, unloved deck -it’s composite floor and wood railings. I expect I need a cleaner and brightener on the composite. DEFY seem to have a dedicated composite product … would this give a better result than the general restore-a-deck packages? Also do I need something different for the wood pieces? I’d prefer to use the same process & products on all of the deck where possible for ease, unless that would significantly affect the results.
Any advice?
Thanks in advance.
[quote name=”Toni”]I have an ipe deck and got the stripper/brightener kit. I just did a sample area on a step and am amazed how well these product work ! Question; how best do I treAt the vertical boards along the side and inder stair tread?[/quote]
Treat as in prep or stain? Best to prep the same way and stain as well.
I have an ipe deck and got the stripper/brightener kit. I just did a sample area on a step and am amazed how well these product work ! Question; how best do I treAt the vertical boards along the side and inder stair tread?
[quote name=”JimConnell”]I have a fairly old pressure-treated deck which I have been finishing with TWP1500 Natural. I would like to switch to a gray-colored stain to be more appropriate for my New England location. I’ve used RAD cleaner before restaining in the past. Should I use RAD cleaner again, or RAD stripper, before changing the color? Also, what stain do you recommend that comes in a gray color? Thanks,
-jimc[/quote]
Best to use the Stripper when changing colors like this. Brighten after. Try the Armstrong Clark in Driftwood Gray.
I have a fairly old pressure-treated deck which I have been finishing with TWP1500 Natural. I would like to switch to a gray-colored stain to be more appropriate for my New England location. I’ve used RAD cleaner before restaining in the past. Should I use RAD cleaner again, or RAD stripper, before changing the color? Also, what stain do you recommend that comes in a gray color? Thanks,
-jimc
If the cleaner does not work then try the stripper and pressure washing for the prep. Use the Restore a Deck Stripper.
I have several tiger wood decks that where installed about 10 years ago. The first year the decks where treated with penofin stain in a lighter color. The following year they where treated with a darker penofin. Over the years the decks have weathered and oxidized to a silver grey. I would like to bring back the original color. Do I need to start with a stripper or just a cleaner? I have tried a few cleaners in the past but nothing has even touched the silver color.
Yes, you can do this.
I have a little bit of Defy Epoxy natural pine left over from previous staining of my deck. I am about to restain (after stripping and brightening) with Defy Extreme light walnut. Would it be OK to mix these two stains before applying so I can use up the old stain?
Thanks.
These will last about the same. One is not going to last longer than the other with both needing to be reapplied every 2-3 years.
I am restaining a 20 year old pressure treated pine deck. The deck is under pretty heavy shade and is subject to getting mold, mildew, etc. I live in TN.
Which of Defy extreme or TWP 100 would be likely to last longest for my application before needing restaining?
Thanks
I have a large treated pine deck that is 5 years old. Four years ago we “stained” it with Behr Premium solid color Deck, Fence & Siding Weatherproofing Wood Stain. The stain is peeling so badly that the deck looks horrible. What products would you recommend to make my deck beautiful again?
Thank you in advance
Susan
Most apply the Stripper with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off. You cannot just rinse off. Scrubbing does help. Correct on the Brightener. Just apply and rinse after 15 minutes.