Log Wood Home PICAsk questions regarding restoring Wood Side Homes and Log Cabins.

Questions should relate to How-To Steps and products such as: Best Wood Home Stains, Cleaners, Strippers, and Brighteners.

Add comment


Comments   

Re-sealing my log home
Prep by using the Restore A Deck kits and pressure washing. Which Defy stain was it? Does not matter on the chinking.
Quote
Re-sealing my log home
We recently purchased a log home in the Pacific Northwest (fir logs) I would like to re-seal the logs and believe that Defy stain was used before. What steps do I need to take to re-seal the logs. I will also have some chinking to repair; is it best to do it before or after I seal the logs?
Quote
re: BOLIDEN SALT STAINING
Any of the wood stains we sell should work. Sorry but sure on the egg stain. Might need to sand it out.
Quote
Boliden salt staining
I have siding of Boliden salt cedar that I would like to refresh with stain. Any products available? Also any help with removing an old "egg" stain from it?
Quote
re: PRESIDENT OF LONE RIDER HOME RENOS
No it will not. No deck stain stripper will remove a paint.
Quote
president of Lone Rider home renos
will the hd80 stripper remove old lead paint from nice cedar siding
Quote
re: Need advice on sealing logs and half log siding.
You need to remove the old coating first with a deck stain stripper and pressure washing. Use a wood brightener after to neutralize. Look at the Restore A Deck Products for this.
Quote
Need advice on sealing logs and half log siding.
I have a log home. I purchased a TWP sealer from you and sealed the north end of the home. The rest of the log home I sealed with a product that came suggested by the manufacturer of the log home. The label on the bucket states the product is oil based and clean up with soap and water. The original product has not held up very well after two applications. The half log siding has cracks and is grayed in areas due to exposure to the sun. The old finish has yellowed and in same cases has turned to powder.
The current color is a yellow gold tone. What recommendations / products do you have in order to seal the logs.
Thanks,
Quote
-
Black specks is mildew while gray is sun damage. Did you pressure wash with a woo cleaner followed by a wood brightener?
Quote
owner
I have sanded my log home to restain it and still have some greying spots. How do I know if these spots are mildew or Sun damage and should I remove it before staining? If so, what is the recommended practice?
Quote
-
Kate, you could try a stain like Armstrong Clark. It can be cleaned and reapplied as needed with sanding.
Quote
-
Is there a stain I can use on my log home that does not need to be resanded when it needs reapplying?
Thanks
Quote
re: BLENDING OLD AND NEW CONSTRUCTION
You cannot blend new wood and old wood to match and you cannot match different brands. Best would be to remove all old coatings 100% and start over with a clean and fresh surface. This would give you the most uniform appearance. TWP TWP stains.
Quote
BLENDING OLD AND NEW CONSTRUCTION
We have a log cabin in the UP of Michigan. It has had various coats of semi transparent stain applied over the years; Behr and about 3 to 4 yrs ago Weatherseal. This summer we are adding an addition and would like it all to match. We did call and were told it is best to wait 4 mos to a year before applying stain to new wood so we plan to wait until next spring to stain. Would like to know what stain you would recommend for new pine half log siding and what preparations to make on old log cabin previously stained.
Quote
-
Bill, I would look at the Armstrong Clark in one of the semi-transparen t colors. TWP cannot be shipped to Canada due to changes in VOC laws there.
Quote
Time to reveal my log home.
I have a log home built by True North out of Canada. I purchased a TWP sealer from you two years ago. It was a clear sealer. My mistake. I sealed the north end of the home with it and it doesn't match. That doesn't bother me much because I really look at it!
This summer I need to power wash the front and rear of the house and apply a sealer to the logs. What do you suggest I use?
The current color is a yellow gold tone. I'll be more specific when I respond to your email.
Thanks,
Bill Morey
Quote
re: Wood Carving
Try Armstrong Clark wood stain.
Quote
Wood Carving
I have a large outdoor wood carving and wanted to know what you recommend to seal it.
Quote
re: TWP 200
I am sorry but we do not stock or sell gallons of the TWP 200.
Quote
TWP 200
Hi,
I understand that you can ship TWP 200 in Canada. I see that you only have 5 gal pails available, can you ship a 1 gal. I want to test the colour before ordering the 5 gal pails.
Quote
re: vertical cedar follow up from 11/27/12 and 4/7/13
Yes that is correct. Any good quality pump sprayer will work for applying the RAD. We sell two here Chapin Sprayers (www.opwdecks.com/.../)
Quote
vertical cedar follow up from 11/27/12 and 4/7/13
So the current plan is RAD Stain Stripper, followed by RAD Brightener, followed by Defy Extreme Clear--just confirming that all are compatible before I order.
And can you recommend a pump sprayer for the RAD products?
Quote
re: follow up to my email below on 11/27/2012.
Defy Extreme is an excellent water based stain and would work very well for this. As good as the other two when it comes to vertical cedar protection. I would go with that.
Quote
owner
This is in follow up to my email below on 11/27/2012.
I am about ready to start the project--I am looking for the most effective stain removal and brightener (wood has really darkend in sun exposed areas), followed by the best clear/natural UV protective and durable stain for the vertical cedar siding. Have your product recommendations changed since 11/27? PS If a water soluble product performs as well I would favor it, but durability and UV protection are key for me so mineral based is OK if it performs better. Located in Adirondack Region of NYS
Quote
re: What is the best stain to use?
There is not a "best" stain for all areas. Where do you live?
Quote
-
We have 2 log siding houses we need to stain. What is the best stain to use?
Quote
re: Cedar Home Siding
If the old stain is still intact then a good wood cleaner and wood brightener with a pressure washing should be enough prep. TWP is not sold in Canada but we cac ship Armstrong Clark or Defy there. Both are excellent products.
Quote
Cedar Home Siding
Just purchased a large cedar siding house (interior and exterior) in Northern Canada. I am new to this as I have never stained before and need advice. The previous stain on the house in not peeling but it looks old. I would like to reapply a new coat. However, I am unsure of how I should prep for the job. Do I sand, just re-stain? Do I need to apply other prep work? I am so lost! The more advice I can get the better because I am a novice at this. Furthermore, I am unsure of what stain to use for this job. TWP seems to have good ratings but is it available in Canada and can it stand up to -40 weather. I am from Northern Manitoba and it has reached these levels numerous times this year. The house is large around 3400 square feet. Thanks for you time.
Quote
re: owner
Some stains will darken form the UV. I would strip it all off with the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper then brighten with the RAD Brightener. As for the stain, I would look at TWP 1500 or Armstrong Clark.
Quote
owner
Modern home sided built 1991 with #3 knotty cedar vertical tongue-in groove siding, looks very similar to picture above in this section. Power washed and Cabots clear applied with reasonable frequency over the years. Wood has gradually darkened most notable in sun exposed areas (e.g. looks near new under the eaves, but dark where sun hits, south facing side very dark, north side very little darkening)--so I believe it is UV change not mold (though cannot rule out mold completely). I would like to get the wood color as close as possible to original--any recommendations??
thanks
Quote
re: log home restoration
I would look at the TWP products for staining as long as you remove the old coatings completely.
Quote
log home restoration
Hi!
We have a few questions regarding the restoration of how log home. We used to use Perma-chink products ( Log Wash,stain Dark Honey and the Clear TopCoat). Which products should we choose if we want to switch to yours.
Thank's for the answer.
Dominique
Quote
re: log home
The TWP 500 is no longer available and has been replaced with the TWP 1500 Series. This is an excellent stain for vertical log walls. It offers deep penetration into the wood, excellent UV resistance, and protects against mold.
Quote
log home
I have looked at sooooo many stains for my log home I can't begin to tell you how confused I am at this point. I am taking my logs back down to bare wood and restaining. I have looked at perma chink stains ultra stain and then I saw where some people where using the twp 500 on logs. My questions are, can you reaply over this stain once it is on and how often? Also what makes this a good stain for logs?

Thanks,


Suzanne
Quote
re: I used Yukon clear gloss stain 2650
I have never heard of this product so it is hard to say what brand would be similar. Maybe Messmers TimberFlex (www.opwdecks.com/.../)?
Quote
-
I have log siding on my home. I used Yukon clear gloss stain 2650. I can not find it anywhere did they quit making it? What should I use in place of that product? I need to stay with a gloss finish to match the rest of the home that does not need to be redone.
Quote
re: Thinning Sikkens
It is probably bad. I would contact Sikkens though and ask them to make sure.
Quote
Thinning Sikkens
I used my 5 gals., of stain 4 months ago ( half ) now it seems thicker than last time etc.Did have a thin crust on

top when I opened the lid. Seems thicker now,....can I thin it down a little ??
Quote
re: Re-coating white cedar shingles stained with oil base stain with oil base stain from another manufacturer
I personally would use the TWP 1500 series over the Messmers Timberflex for this project.

It would be besr to use a stain stripper followed by a wood brightener to prep the surface. This will achieve maximum performance for the TWP 1500. You can just use a wood cleaner and brightener instead but it would not be the best scenario.
Quote
re: ok thanks, I assume no issues with covering the 1500 over the existing 200?
As long as you do not over apply the 1500 Series.
Quote
Re-coating white cedar shingles stained with oil base stain with oil base stain from another manufacturer
What would you recommend for a stain to go over another stain that has been on for 12 to 16 months? The previous stain used was Duckback Superdeck semi-transparen t mineral/tung oil base. The current stain is almost gone except where water did not wash it away. Many of the shingles have medium brown stains from the oils being driven to the surface and the surface of the shingle has wood fibers coming off when rubbed by hand. Being a low VOC state you seem to recommend TWP1500 for my house. When I narrow the stain search your site comes up with Messmers Timberflex. If the less expensive is better it' a win-win for me. What to you think? Also do you see any issues with coating one product over another? Thanks.
Quote
-
ok thanks, I assume no issues with covering the 1500 over the existing 200?
Quote
re: covered porch made from cedar and Douglas fir that was recently built
I would use the TWP 1500 Series (www.opwdecks.com/.../)
Quote
-
I have a covered porch made from cedar and Douglas fir that was recently built (3 months ago) and stained with TWP 200 russet. I live in TX. I would like to re-stain it to darken the appearance and to add more protection to the wood.

Can I use any of the series 100, 200, 1500 over the current stain?

Which would be best for the wood preservation? Thanks
Quote
re: log home
For your log home and previous stain type I would look at the:

Messmers Timberflex (www.opwdecks.com/.../)
Quote
-
I still have a label but it does not say who made it. Apparently it is no longer around. It is a carnish type. I have had no peeling.
Quote
re: log home
I am not familiar with a stain called Yukon. Did it lie on top of the wood and create a shiny "varnish" type finish? Has it peeled at all?
Quote
log home
I need to stain an existing log home. Last used was a "Yukon" semi-gloss oil. It is pretty dry is most places. What product do you suggest for Utah - heavy snow in winter, dry in summer, high sun all year.

Thanks
Quote
re: cover cwf
You cannot/should not apply any stain over the CWF. If you do you will run the risk of the new stain not properly penetrating. It would be best to remove the CWF with a stain stripper. This way your new stain will last much longer.
Quote
cover cwf
what can i use to treat my log home ? it has been treated with cwf from lowes . i'm looking for something i can spray over the cwf . i live in wv. thanks
Quote
re: Wood Countertop
The products we sell are penetrating stains designed for exterior use. Nothing we sell would be appropriate for a sink countertop.
Quote
Wood Countertop
Have a new vanity that came with silvery counter top that appears to be cypress and it has already turned slightly grey which I like and want to keep the weathered look while sealing it to protect it from moister from vessel sink I installed. What can I seal it with that will be strong enough to repel the water yet will not darken the finish when I seal it. I have tried Helmsman outdoor sealer and the spot I did in the back as a test spot turned very dark.
Quote
re: Please help with cedar siding stain I'm at my wits end.
1. You cannot buy 100 series in a non-compliant state. I would go with the 1500. Works great.

2. TWP is as good or better the Penofin Red Label

3. TWP does extremely well with mildew.

4. Costs a lot of money to get a stain registered. I believe $25,000 per color. TWP is the only that pays the price tag.

If it was my cedar siding I would go with TWP.
Quote
Please help with cedar siding stain I'm at my wits end.
Hello, I've been researching semitransparent stains for our cedar sided home ad nauseam and my eyes are bleeding at this point. I am stripping the latex paint and underlying varnish/primer for our 1959 home. Lots and lots of work. When I'm done the absolute last thing I want to do is put an inferior stain on our siding. So a couple of questions:
1. TWP 100 vs 500 vs 1500 - I live in a non-compliant state. Will I do better to use the 100 series do to it's faster drying time? Will it penetrate further into the wood? Or is it more beneficial to use the lower VOC versions with higher solids content? I plan on applying in the early evening after the siding has cooled down with night temps in the 60 - 70s.

2. You get what you pay for. 5 Gal of TWP is around $170 and Penofin Red Premium is $230. So what am I to expect in terms of quality between these two? Again I've been through the product literature over and over and over.

3. I live in a very shaded area. Both the TWP and Penofin indicate they have mildicides. Any preference?

4. TWP is a registered wood preservative. Penofin is not. What the deal? I just want happy thoughts knowing I made the right purchase. I plan on using the same product same color for maintenance coats long into the future.

Please steer me towards the light. I've been through numerous info including the Forest Products Journal deck finish study (2000). I just want to make a decision at this point and move on.
Great site and very informative. I really appreciate your time.
Thanks Glenn
Quote
re: ceder wood siding
What stains have you used in the past and which state do you live in?
Quote
ceder wood siding
can you please tell me what to use on my ceder siding home to keep natural wood look , it seems to turn dark after a period of time thanks.
Quote
re: Defy wood cleaner
Sorry but the Defy Wood cleaner cannot be injected through a pressure washer. Actually none of the wood cleaners we sell can be injected.
Quote
-
Hi, I really like your Defy wood cleaner product. Do you all have a similar product that can be used in a pressure washer chemical injector? I sometimes clean tall houses that are hard to reach and would really like to use your cleaner through the chemical injector. Or do you know what ratio I would use with the Defy wood cleaner?
Quote
re: Mildewcide
Sorry but we do not sell mildewcides that can be added to the Defy Epoxy stain. Not sure if you can actually do that. Defy stains are water based and are not prone to feeding mildew growth. The Defy Extreme Stain is the Defy Epoxy but with the added ingredient of nano-sized zinc oxide particles. This aids in UV protection and zinc oxide reduces mold/mildew growth.
Quote
Mildewcide
Do you sell mildewcides that can be added to Defy Epoxy? Need to know before my product that was ordered on 7/27/10 ships to Michael Bouthot.
Thank you
Alyce
Quote
re: PINE SIDING
Yes you can use the Cabot TimberOil on all types of wood. No it can not be tinted and only comes in stock colors.
Quote
PINE SIDING
I am thinking of using t&g 1x6 PINE for siding ( I can not afford cedar or redwood )
I plan on using PERMA-CHINK SHELL GUARD , a water based rot preventor & incectiside as the first coat .
I love the look of redwood that has been coated with mahogeny flame tinted CABOT TIMBER OIL.

My ? is , can I use the timber oil on pine sence the pine is not a hardwood ???
and can it be tinted to get that redish/orangish /brownish color or would I be stuck with the few tints that are sold ???
Quote
re: Need help!
It may be from the oxidation. Not sure 100% as we do wood restoration not vinyl siding cleaning.
Quote
Need help!
Hey, I have a job where I powerwashed vinyl siding. 2 days later looks dirtier than before I washed it on sun exposed walls. Actually looks stained with dirt, rest of house looks good. Removed shutters & is the way it's supposed to look under the shutters. Perplexed!!
Thank you!
Quote
re: Log Cabin in Michigan
The Messmers Timberflex is a film-forming finish that will leave a shine on the surface. If that is what you are looking for then yes it is a great product for vertical surfaces such as log homes.
Quote
-
I am putting up some half pine log siding and cedar shakes on the gabel ends on my cabin in Michigan. Is it recommended to seal the back sides also of the logs/shakes to protect against moisture? I have heard a lot of good qualities of the Messmer's Timberlex stain/sealer. Is this a good product or is there a better one out there that I havent heard about.
Quote
re: site manager
I would use either the Defy Hardwood or the Defy Extreme. The Defy Extreme will hold color a little longer then the Hardwood as it contains nan0 sized particles of zinc oxide that reflect the UV radiation retaining color longer.
Quote
site manager
we have 9 high-grade, cedar-sided buildings at our camp in Indianapolis, a mix of lap siding and cedar shakes. the original coating was Cabot semi-transparen t and i was thinking of changing to Defy...should I use the Epoxy Fortified on the shakes and the Hardwood on the smooth or is one ok for both?
Quote
re: Removing Stain from Timber Frame
All the products we sell are typically used for exterior removal. They do require the use of a lot of water. To remove a stain from the inside will require sanding or a stripper followed by scrapping.

Your options are limited. :sad:
Quote
Removing Stain from Timber Frame
We're renovating a house need to remove wood stain from sections of the timber frame that will be left exposed. This is an interior job so lots of water to rinse, etc. are not options. any help would be appreciated.
Quote
re: Wait between Stripper and Brightener
It is best to apply the Wood Brightener as soon as you are done with the Wood Stripper while the wood is still wet. The sooner the better to neutralize the stripper and change your pH balance of the wood to neutral.
Quote
-
How long do you wait between using Defy exterior wood stripper and Defy wood brightner? Do you go ahead and apply the brightner while the wood is still wet from the stripper?

Thanks,
Lanor
Quote
re: white pine log home
If there is a previous (different brand) coating, then it could prevent the Defy from penetrating. The Defy could then fail prematurely. I would not do it.
Quote
-
White Pine log home. Age 8 years.
I would like to switch to Defy synthetic.
I have sanded the old finish off with 80 grit (orbital sander).
I've refinished with True North Log Homes Water-Borne Natural finish. Once these surfaces (True North Water-Borne) require a maintenance coat, can I apply Defy synthetic over the cleaned Water-Borne surface when needed in 1-3 years?
Thank you.
Quote
re:sealing cedar siding
Almost all of our Defy customers use the Defy Original Synthetic when applying to their cedar homes or log cabins.
Quote
Sealing cedar siding
Thanks for your reply. Which of the Defy products- Defy Epoxy Stain ; Defy Original Synthetic ; Defy Hardwood Stain would be best for our 18 year old cedar siding? Thanks.
Quote
re: Sealing cedar siding
If you change products you will need to strip off the CWF first with a wood stripper.

We are not a fan of Sikkens as it is hard to work with in the future. Defy is a very good product and we have a substanial amount of people who use the Defy Original synthetic on their homes.
Quote
Sealing cedar siding
We have an 18 year-old home with cedar siding. The siding desperately needs staining. Previously we have used CWA UV but would like to try something new. Does anyone have experience using Defy stains or Sikkens SRD? Also, what should we use to clean siding. In the past we have used bleach with water but would like to know if there is something which works better. Thanks
Quote
Reply to Rusty
I would clean and brighten the cabin to restore the natural color of the wood. Applying a transparent tinted stain will enahance the log cabin and protect the wood from graying in the future.
Quote
-
We do not sell anything that will stop termites. I believe that borates will work. This is a chemical that can be added to the wood. The termites will either not eat the wood or will die if they do. This can be added prior to staining the wood.
Quote
Protection against termites?
What kind of protection against termites would you suggest for my wooden house? I know they're a pest in the neighborhood, but they've stayed away from my house so far, and I want to keep it that way.
Quote
-
My grandmother has a very old (yet stout) log cabin, it is probably getting close to being 100 years old. It is made of large logs, the wood is still good and strong, but it has grayed. We don't think we would want to "modernize" it, we want to keep the authentic old log cabin look, but perhaps we should do some touch ups? What would you recommend?
Quote
-
Not quite sure how to answer that. Never have really dealt with structural issues. As far as treating the wood, I would suggest a thorough cleaning with a wood or deck cleaner (www.opwdecks.com/.../) followed by a transparent deck sealer (www.opwdecks.com/.../) to help with water damage and keeping the wood looking great
Quote
Keeping it hurricane-proof
I've learned the hard way that large panels is a bad idea, as a hurricane can simply rip the right off and you've got a flying disk of wooden death flying through the air.

What advice do you have when it comes to keeping it resistant to strong winds, and also good looking?
Quote