Cleaning a wood deck the right way comes down to three things: the right cleaner, low pressure, and a brightener to finish. I have been restoring decks since 1993, and when a stain fails early, the cause is almost always the prep, not the stain. This guide covers the exact process I use, from choosing between a cleaner and a stripper to the 48 hour dry time before you stain.
- Decide between a deck cleaner or a stain stripper based on whether the old stain has faded evenly or peeled.
- Apply the cleaner with a pump sprayer in sections of 200-300 square feet, agitating with a stiff broom or scrub brush.
- When pressure washing, always use a fan tip and clean with the grain of the wood to avoid damage.
- Apply a wood brightener after cleaning, then let the deck dry for 48 hours before applying a deck stain.
In this guide:
- Deck Cleaner or Stain Stripper: Which Do You Need?
- Tools and Materials for Cleaning a Wood Deck
- How to Clean a Wood Deck in 9 Steps
- Using a Stain Stripper Instead
- Pressure Washing a Deck Without Damaging the Wood
- How to Clean a Deck Without a Pressure Washer
- Cleaning Mold, Mildew, Algae, and Gray Wood
- Cleaning New Deck Wood Before Staining
- Deck Cleaning FAQ
Deck Cleaner or Stain Stripper: Which Do You Need?
Cleaning a wood deck starts with one decision: a deck cleaner or a stain stripper. A cleaner removes dirt, gray oxidized fibers, mildew, and an old stain that has worn away evenly. A stripper removes stain that is still on the wood, which you need when the old finish is peeling, blotchy, or a different brand from the one you plan to use next.
| Deck Cleaner | Stain Stripper | |
|---|---|---|
| Use it when | Wood is new, dirty, gray, or the old stain faded evenly | Old stain is peeling, uneven, or you are switching brands |
| What it removes | Dirt, gray fibers, mildew, worn stain residue | Existing stain and sealers, plus the dirt underneath |
| Dwell time | About 10 to 15 minutes | Longer, per the label; tough coatings may need a second pass |
| Follow with | Wood brightener | Wood brightener (no separate cleaner needed) |
| What I use | Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kits | Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit |
I suggest using the same brand of cleaner and stain when the manufacturer makes both, because the products are designed to work together. On my own jobs, I use Restore A Deck for prep under almost every stain brand. If you want to compare the cleaners on the market, I test every major brand side by side in my deck cleaning reviews on DeckStainHelp.
Tools and Materials for Cleaning a Wood Deck
Cleaning a wood deck takes only a few tools, and most homeowners already own half of them. Have everything on hand before you mix the cleaner, because the cleaner should never dry on the wood while you look for a brush.
- Deck cleaner or stain stripper plus a wood brightener. A kit gives you both in matched amounts.
- Pump sprayer for applying the cleaner and brightener. A Chapin Clean and Stain Sprayer handles both and resists chemical damage.
- Stiff scrub brush on a pole, such as a deck scrub brush, for working the cleaner into the grain.
- Pressure washer with a 25 or 40 degree fan tip, or a garden hose with a strong nozzle if you scrub by hand.
- Plastic sheeting and a garden hose to protect plants and nearby surfaces.
- Rubber gloves and eye protection.
How to Clean a Wood Deck in 9 Steps
Cleaning a wood deck follows the same nine steps whether the wood is pressure treated pine, cedar, or redwood. Plan on most of a day for an average deck, plus two dry days before staining.
- Clear the deck. Move all furniture, grills, and planters at least 20 feet away. Sweep leaves and debris off the surface and out of the gaps between boards so the cleaner reaches the wood.
- Protect plants and nearby surfaces. Soak plants and grass around the deck with water, then cover them with plastic sheeting. Keep the plastic off plants on hot days so they do not overheat, and rinse them again when you finish.
- Mix the cleaner. Follow the manufacturer’s ratio exactly and mix in your pump sprayer. A cleaner mixed too weak leaves gray wood behind, and one mixed too strong is harder on the wood and the plants.
- Wet the wood and apply the cleaner. Lightly wet the deck, then saturate a section of about 200 to 300 square feet. On railings and other vertical surfaces, start at the bottom and work up to avoid streaking.
- Let it dwell and scrub. Leave the cleaner on for about 10 to 15 minutes and keep it wet the whole time, adding more if it starts to dry. Scrub the wood with a stiff brush, moving with the grain.
- Pressure wash or rinse. Rinse the section with a fan tip held about 12 inches from the wood, moving with the grain at low pressure. If you do not have a pressure washer, scrub harder and rinse with a hose.
- Repeat and rinse everything. Work through the deck one section at a time. When you finish, rinse all decking, railings, the side of the house, and any plants to remove loosened dirt and cleaner.
- Apply the brightener while the wood is still wet. The brightener neutralizes the cleaner, restores the wood’s natural pH, and brings back the wood’s color. Let it dwell as the label directs, then give the deck a light rinse.
- Let the deck dry for 48 hours. Wood needs to be fully dry before staining, so wait two dry days and push the start date back if it rains. Stain applied to wet wood will not absorb properly.
Using a Stain Stripper Instead
Cleaning a wood deck with a stain stripper follows the same steps, with three differences. First, the stripper replaces the cleaner, so you do not need both. Second, strippers need a longer dwell time, and heavy or solid coatings may take a second application. Third, the brightener step is not optional after a stripper, because strippers leave the wood darker and with a high pH.
For stubborn coatings, I add the Restore A Deck Booster and Thickening Gel additives. The Booster increases stripping strength, and the Gel keeps the stripper from running off vertical surfaces like railings and balusters.
Pressure Washing a Deck Without Damaging the Wood
Pressure washing a deck is where most DIY cleaning jobs go wrong. Never pressure wash a deck with water alone. Without a cleaner, you need high pressure to remove dirt, and high pressure tears the wood fibers, leaving the surface fuzzy and splintered. With a cleaner doing the work, the pressure only needs to rinse.
- Pressure: 500 to 800 PSI for cedar, redwood, and other soft woods, and up to about 1,200 PSI for pressure treated pine.
- Tip: Use a 25 or 40 degree fan tip. Never use the red zero degree tip on wood.
- Distance: Hold the tip about 12 inches from the surface and test in an inconspicuous spot first.
- Direction: Move with the grain in long, even strokes. Stopping in one place leaves marks that show through the stain.
How to Clean a Deck Without a Pressure Washer
Cleaning a wood deck without a pressure washer works well for dirt, gray wood, and light mildew. Apply the cleaner the same way, let it dwell, and scrub every board with a stiff brush on a pole, working with the grain. Rinse thoroughly with a garden hose and a strong nozzle, then apply the brightener.
Hand scrubbing takes more effort, and it is less effective at removing old stain with a stripper. If you are stripping a failed finish, a pressure washer at low pressure gets far better results.
Cleaning Mold, Mildew, Algae, and Gray Wood
Cleaning a wood deck with mold, mildew, or green algae calls for the same process, with more attention in shaded areas. These growths hold moisture against the wood, so scrub shaded sections and areas near trees a second time if the first pass leaves dark spots.
Gray wood is not dirt. It is the top layer of wood fibers broken down by UV exposure, and a good cleaner plus a brightener removes it and brings back the wood’s natural color. If mildew returns quickly between cleanings, RAD Guard Mildew Cleaner and Preventer slows regrowth on shaded decks.
Avoid chlorine bleach. It kills surface mildew, but it breaks down the wood fibers, leaves the wood looking washed out, and is hard on surrounding plants. Oxygen based deck cleaners are safer for the wood and do a better job.
Cleaning New Deck Wood Before Staining
Cleaning new deck wood is just as important as cleaning an old deck. New smooth lumber has mill glaze, a compressed surface from the milling process that keeps stain from absorbing evenly. I let new smooth wood weather for 3 to 4 months, then clean and brighten it to open the surface before staining. Rough sawn wood can be cleaned and stained right away.
Deck Cleaning FAQ
Can I clean my deck with just a pressure washer and water?
No. Water alone needs high pressure to remove dirt and gray fibers, and that pressure damages the wood. A deck cleaner loosens the dirt chemically, so you can rinse at low pressure and keep the surface smooth.
Do I need to clean a new deck before staining it?
Yes. New wood has mill glaze and dirt from construction that block stain absorption. Clean and brighten new wood before the first coat, including new railings.
Is deck prep different for oil based and water based stains?
No. The cleaning and brightening steps are the same for both. The type of stain matters more than the base when it comes to prep.
Do I need a deck cleaner if I use a stain stripper?
No. A stain stripper cleans the wood while it removes the old stain. You still need a brightener afterward.
Can I use bleach to clean my deck?
I do not recommend it. Chlorine bleach breaks down wood fibers, discolors the wood, and harms plants. Use an oxygen based deck cleaner instead.
How long after cleaning a deck can I stain it?
Wait 48 hours of dry weather after cleaning and brightening. If it rains, start the 48 hours again once the wood dries.
Have a question about cleaning your deck? Ask in the comments below. I answer most questions within a day.

I stained my deck with Defy Extreme Driftwood Gray in 2018. It’s held up well (deck is south facing on lake). I plan to re-stain this year. I plan to use the same stain but am puzzled by which cleaner and brightener I need & how much of each I need. I have about 600 sq ft to cover. Last time I stained I used one 5 gallon pail. What do you suggest?
Thanks
Clarence
Use this kit for the prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/rad-300.htm
Thanks – I just placed an order.
I have a new porch which was installed in late June 2020. The lumber was treated and I have filled all screws with a stainable wood filler and sanded it down in July of this year. I do not own a pressure washer and I am ready to clean and stain. I am using Cabot oil based stain. How and what should I use to clean prior to apply my stain? Thank you
The wood filler will not work and stain to blend with exterior stains. You should remove it first. Clean and brighten for prep with this: https://www.opwdecks.com/best-selling-cleaner.htm
(see my other question below) Why do you say it’s easier to prep for oil based stains?
We didn’t. Said they were about equal but this has more to do with the type of stain, not the base.
Do the instructions for prepping a deck apply equally for oil based and water based stains?
Yes.
My deck is about one year old. I have three different types of wood. My flooring and steps are compresses wood but my upper and lower rails are cedar with metal balusters and all underneath and post are pressure treated. How do I go about staining the cedar and the pressure treated wood
Clean and brighten the wood for the prep: https://www.opwdecks.com/best-selling-cleaner.htm
Stain with Armstrong Clark: https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
Is it necessary to clean and brighten new wood railings?
Yes.
We have a cumaru wood deck that has been allowed to gray. Some areas in a partially shaded area near trees looks dark and dirty. If we clean the deck, do we have to stain/and or seal after cleaning? There are also some grease and food stains on the deck. Please advise the best treatment.
It would be best to stain it. Look at the Armstrong Clark in one of the hardwood colors:
https://www.opwdecks.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon.htm
Use the TWP 1500 for this. Prep all first with the Restore A Deck Kits that we sell.
I have a 5 year pine deck. 2 years ago I used a water based stain that failed on the decking in the sun. The stairway is in the shade and still looks ok but a bit dirty.
Last year I stripped the deck and deck railing but it got cold before I could stain. Today sanded the deck and rails entirely. The deck looks fresh but rails look a bit dark.
So questions on my 2 areas:
First the deck and rails. ( Freshly sanded) Do I need to do anything else before I stain? I want to go oil based this time so it lasts longer. I live in Maryland. Deck is in the sun am to early afternoon. What oil based stain would do best?
Second the stairs: The stairs are in the shade and only look dirty at this point. I was thinking of redoing them entirely next year. ( yeah I am aware I may end up with slightly different colors but I have lots of projects to do and it will start getting real hot soon) What should I use to clean them?
I am sorry but we do not have any stains for composite decking.
I need to seal composit decking (EverGrain-Tamko) Decking what to use??
You will not leave footprints if you step in the first coat of stain. Make sure to not step in your second coat.
Do not use a borate.
If you use a stain stripper you do not need a cleaner.
I would like to see the answer to Rod Weirick’s question re: wet on wet. Also, I saw a demo from This Old House in which the fellow used Borate between cleaning and staining. If I’m using Defy Extreme Stain, is that recommended? Lastly, if I use a stain stripper on my deck, because I’m changing to Defy, does that handle all of the elements that the cleaner would (the deck is old, grayed, very green w/alphae with just a few traces of the previous stain, which was a latex, I think)?
Excellent. I’ll go with the TWP 1500. A final question: If I am to apply two coats wet on wet, how do I go about putting on the second coat (applying using a roller or pad) while the first coat is still wet? Surely my footprints will become evident on the first coat while applying the second, thereby compromising the appearance of the stain on the flooring.
Olympic and Cabot used to be excellent stains prior to numerous formulas changes in the last years. Average at best now. I would stick with the TWP.
Thank you for your previous response. I’m now on to deciding on the best products to use to clean and stain my deck. The man at Lowe’s was defensive when I informed him that his store didn’t carry the Internet’s more popular semi-transparent stain brands (i.e., Defy Extreme, TWP 1500, Armstrong Clark) and informed me that his use of Olympic on his own deck suited him well. The other product Lowe’s carried that he recommended was Cabot. From what I’ve read, these two products are not up to par with those touted on the Internet. (Consumer Reports rated nine broadly marketed semi-transparents–including Olympic and Cabot–and only one product, Behr, received a rating above fair.) I’m therefore leaning toward Defy Extreme or TWP 1500. Do you agree with the Lowe’s employee that Olympic or Cabot are as good as any stain product out there, and, if not, would you recommend the water-based Defy or the oil-based TWP? Thank you for your time.
Yes all new and older wood should be prepped with a deck cleaner and wood brightener.
First of all, great Web site. Second, I’m new at this. I live in Kansas and have a new deck that was built nearly 7 months ago. The wood is not pressure treated. I purchased a pressure washer and am trying to decide on the best brand of semi-transparent stain. I was surprised by the comment above that one should never pressure wash a deck with just water. I’ve been conducting research on the Internet and have not come across this advice. I was simply going to lightly pressure wash the deck, let it dry for 72 hours, then stain it. Now I’m reading on your site that I need to clean the deck with more than just water and that I also need a wood brightener, which I thought was recommended only for decks that were older and had previously been stained. I was not aware until reading above that the brightener was necessary to neutralize the deck cleaner. I’m not lazy, but I’m trying to determine if it is necessary to use a cleaner and brightener for a new non-PT deck. I look forward to your feedback. Thanks.
New wood will not match old wood. Best to remove all previous coatings form the old boards then stain all the same color.
My husband just finished replacing some of the deck boards that were warped or shrunk. Now we have some new boards and some old boards. The older boards have been down for about 10 years and need to be restained. How do we go about restaining this deck with some old and some new boards?
You could try 1 part bleach to 5 parts water. Just apply then rinse after 10 minutes.
I rebuilt my deck last year and cleaned, brighten and stained/sealed it using Defy products last summer. Now I need to clean it of some mold. If I use the deck cleaner do I need to restain/seal it? Or is there something else I can use to clean the mold? I tried just a mild soap water and scrubbing but the mold will not come off. Thanks for your help
The older products were discontinued by Gemini for the better Restore-A-Deck products.
I have a low deck…second summer with TWP 1501, started seeing some mildew/mold. Use oxyclean and detergent mix to clean successfully. Some deck stain was removed in process…deck is lighter and not water repellent any more. Previously used Gemini Deck Maintain and Brightener, but can no longer find these products…does gemini no longer recommend or make these? The Restore-a-deck products seem to be pushed on all the TWP sites. On PT Pine full sun, would u recommend the RAD products or should i seek out the older products from gemini?
I would wait at least a month to let the PTP wood dry before staining. You would then need to use a deck cleaner ([url]http://www.opwdecks.com/wooddeckcleaners.htm[/url]) and a deck brightener ([url]http://www.opwdecks.com/wooddeckbrighteners.htm[/url]) to prep the wood, remove the mill glaze and open the pores of the wood.
One Time will not live up to its claims and the warranty is not going to cover color retention. It is also known to turning black. We will not carry it because we do not believe in BS warranties/guarantees.
Just finished building my deck 2 days ago and have been researching stains. So far I like what I’ve found with One Time stain products. My question is with the preparation before applying. My deck is exposed to sun for basically the whole day, how long should I wait before even thinking about staining it and when it’s time to stain it since it’s new pressure treated pine is anything else needed done to it besides applying a deck cleaner and rinsing it off?
Yes on new wood or lightly gray wood you can use a scrub brush and spray nozzle.
On wood that is either new or not badly ‘degraded’, can you use a hose with spray nozzle instead of a powerwasher?
Thanks
Messmers Part B ([url]http://www.opwdecks.com/messmer-b-brightener.htm[/url]) is their brightener
I use Messmer’s Deck Cleaner. Do they make a brightener that you recommend?
Any wood deck cleaner ([url]http://www.opwdecks.com/wooddeckcleaners.htm[/url]) will work.
For the stain you might want to look at the Armstrong Clark ([url]http://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm[/url]) in the Mahogany color.
mom of 4 boys single parent – i have large ipe decks – i have oiled previously with Australian Timber Oil – 3 years ago. Decks no longer red – near to trees so covered in green grime and oil coming off – i have power washed but still needs to be cleaner. what would you recommend to clean so i can re oil – is the Aust Timber oil the best thing to use to oil once clean thanks???