New Deck Stain Summary
New decks must always be cleaned and prepped before staining—never skip this step. Mill glaze, moisture, and surface residue prevent proper stain absorption and cause early failure. Allow your new wood to weather for several months, clean and brighten it, then apply a quality penetrating stain for lasting results and protection.
Do You Need to Clean a New Deck Before Staining?
One of the biggest misconceptions about new decks is that they don’t need to be cleaned before staining. This couldn’t be further from the truth. Every new piece of lumber comes from the mill with a thin, shiny coating known as mill glaze. This glaze protects the wood during manufacturing and shipping—but it also prevents deck stains from properly penetrating the surface.
Mill glaze can be removed in one of two ways:
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Washing the deck with a quality deck cleaner and brightener before staining.
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Letting the deck weather naturally for several months before cleaning and sealing.
Why You Should Never Stain a Deck Too Soon
New wood also has a very high moisture content. You can tell just by lifting a fresh board—new lumber feels heavier than aged wood because of the trapped water inside. Staining a deck too soon can seal in that moisture, leading to problems like:
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Mold and mildew growth under the coating
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Premature stain failure and peeling
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Potential wood rot from trapped moisture
Timing Is Everything: When to Stain New Wood
Depending on the brand of deck stain, new wood must “weather” or dry out before cleaning and staining. Many homeowners believe a new deck needs to sit for a full year before staining, but this is a myth. In fact, leaving your deck unprotected for that long can cause UV damage, warping, and surface graying.
As a rule of thumb:
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Wait 3–6 months after installation, depending on sun exposure and weather.
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Check the moisture level with a moisture meter—it should read 10–12% or less before staining.
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Decks that get full sun and heat typically dry faster and may be ready within 90 days.
Step 1: Cleaning a New Deck
Once the deck has properly dried, the first prep step is to wash the wood. A quality sodium percarbonate deck cleaner (powder form) works best.
Pro Tips for Cleaning a New Deck:
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Mix the cleaner according to directions and apply it using a pump sprayer.
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Scrub with a stiff bristle brush or use a low-pressure power washer (no more than 1200–1500 PSI).
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Remove all dirt, grime, mill glaze, and any early signs of wood graying.
This process opens the wood grain and prepares it to accept the brightener and stain.
Step 2: Brightening a New Deck
After cleaning, immediately apply a deck brightener. This crucial step neutralizes the cleaner (which is often caustic and can darken the wood) and restores the wood’s natural color tone.
A brightener also resets the pH balance of the wood, allowing the stain to penetrate evenly and deeply. You’ll notice the deck brighten and look “new” again within minutes of application.
Step 3: Staining a New Deck
Allow the wood to dry for 48–72 hours before staining. Sweep or blow off any debris that may have settled on the surface.
Choose a high-quality penetrating deck stain designed for new wood—lower-quality products won’t absorb well into dense, fresh lumber. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for:
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Application method (pad, brush, sprayer, or roller)
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Coverage rates per coat
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Drying and curing times
Allow the deck stain to fully cure for several days before use.
Final Thoughts
Prepping a new deck for stain isn’t difficult, but it’s essential to the long-term health of your wood. Cleaning, brightening, and properly timing your stain application are the keys to achieving maximum stain penetration and long-lasting protection.
If you’re unsure whether your new deck is ready for staining, use a moisture meter or contact us in the comments below for expert guidance.
AQs – Staining a New Deck
How long should you wait before staining a new pressure-treated deck?
Most new pressure-treated decks should weather for 3–6 months before staining. This allows the wood to dry out and release internal moisture. You can check readiness with a moisture meter—look for readings of 12% or less before applying stain.
Do I really need to clean a new deck before staining?
Yes. Even brand-new wood needs to be cleaned and brightened before staining. This removes mill glaze, dirt, and construction residue that block stain penetration. Skipping this step is one of the most common causes of premature stain failure.
Can I stain my new deck right away?
No. Staining too soon traps moisture in the wood and often leads to peeling, mildew growth, and uneven color. Allow at least 3 months of dry time (longer in shaded or humid areas) before cleaning and staining.
Is a brightener really necessary after cleaning?
Absolutely. Deck brighteners neutralize the cleaner and restore the wood’s pH balance. This ensures that the stain penetrates properly and enhances the wood’s natural tone.
What type of stain is best for new wood decks?
For new decks, use a high-quality penetrating stain rather than a film-forming or solid stain. Penetrating stains—like TWP, Armstrong Clark, or Restore-A-Deck—bond within the wood fibers, allowing it to breathe and flex naturally.
How do I know if my deck is too wet to stain?
Use a moisture meter or the “water drop test.” Sprinkle a few drops of water on the surface—if they bead up, the wood is still too wet. If the drops soak in within a few seconds, the wood is ready to stain.
Scott’s Pro Tips for First-Time Deck Staining
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Test before you stain. Always test your stain color on a small, hidden area first. New wood absorbs stain differently than aged wood, and color may vary depending on grain density.
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Avoid staining in direct sunlight. Work early in the morning or later in the day to prevent flash drying, which can cause lap marks and uneven penetration.
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Use a stain pad for best results. Pads allow you to push stain evenly into the grain, especially on smooth new lumber. Avoid foam rollers—they can apply too heavily.
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Less is more. Don’t over-apply. One coat is usually enough for new decks. Applying too much stain can create shiny or sticky spots that won’t cure properly.
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Stay consistent with your brand. Use the same manufacturer for your cleaner, brightener, and stain when possible. These systems are designed to work together for the best results.
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Perform a yearly check. After the first year, lightly clean and inspect the deck. A quick maintenance coat will extend the life of the original finish and prevent graying or UV damage.
hi how about the sap coming through the oilbased stain? was there prep that I should have done?
Sap seeping out of wood cannot be controlled or prevented.
How long does it take for sealer to dry? Will the sealer still work if it rained within an hour after the deck was sealed?
What brand?
Sorry, I don’t know. A contractor did for me. What about in general?
Can’t answer the question properly without knowing the brand and type of sealer used.
We are building a deck using kiln-dried redwood. How long should we wait before staining? Is it OK to use the deck before it’s been stained? Thank you.
2-3 months and then prep. You can use the deck while waiting.
Hi. I have just installed a brand new Red Balu deck. I have power-washed it without any cleaner and then sanded it thoroughly with a floor sander and 80 Grit paper. Do I need to rewash it with cleaner and brightener? I feel like it’s a raw surface now without any dirt or mill glaze. Please let me know.
You have to let it weather so the wood is porous. 3 months and then clean and brighten for final prep.
Thank you. One clarification: The wood did weather for 4 months and now
After install it weathered? Sanding actually is not a good idea as it closes the pores so you should still weather it.
Our deck is 18 years old, and was never treated. It is on the north side of the house, so no direct sunlight, and under a porch, so mostly protected from the weather. The deck was just power – washed as part of a whole house cleaning. We would like to stain and protect the deck. What are the steps we need to take and what products do we need?
Looks like IPE, try the AC stains in one of the 3 hardwood colors: https://www.opwdecks.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon.htm
Thank you for the quick response. Is the AC stain enough to protect the deck as well? Or do we need a finish (polyurethane, urethane, polycrylic, or poly) as well? Will a finish give a nice shine to the wood? Is it better to not coat the wood?
You cannot top coat a stain and never use a shiny coating on a deck. It will blister and peel.
Thank you. Do I need to apply one coat or two of the AC stain?
Just one coat.
I live in central arkansas and it rains all the time. Looking at weather, I can get stain on say Wednesday but it rains Thursday. Is that enough time for the stain to dry before it gets rained on?
Yes.
some of the new deck boards have a factory stamp on them. How do I remove before staining?
Sand those of now. Let the wood weather for a few months and then clean and brighten for prep before staining.
I live in Maryland and had a new deck built of pressure treated wood in early March. It has numerous knots and checks which we have been told are normal. The checks are quite long on some pieces and appeared after the first two weeks; my understanding is that this is what happens as the PT wood dries. I have finally convinced the company to replace 9 vertical hand-rail posts where the knots go through 2-3 sides of the post. I will repair the other knots but need your advice on the best way to do so as I am reading mixed advice on using wood filler vs epoxy. If I use wood filler, I need to try to match the stain. If I use epoxy, I’m to put some coloring in it to match the stain. All this sounds very complex but the epoxy process makes more sense to me. I’ve also read mixed opinions on the need to sand the deck (I hope not!) Should do anything to treat the checks or cracks? We also had a carpenter bee infestation in our old deck and now the bees are looking for their homes in our new deck. I want to treat our deck before they start digging in. Given our circumstance, what do you recommend I do and what is the best timing for it? E.g., should I treat the knots as soon as this week of rain is over, or wait until closer to staining? I do not have a moisture meter. When do you recommend that I start the process of cleaning, brightening, and staining? Any tips to keep the carpenter bees from moving in while I wait. (They are also pollinators so I hate to kill them–I just don’t want them damaging our new deck.) Many thanks for your advice!
You cannot use wood filler on exterior wood. It will not work well and will not blend with a semi-transparent stain. Don’t do it and just leave as is. No reason to as well. This is normal for your wood type to have checks and cracks and is not a big deal.
Not much you can do about the bees outside of using an insecticide that will kill them. This would be applied after the staining.
Thank you! What about the knots? Should I fill them with epoxy so water doesn’t sit in the worn out areas and/or to keep the knots from falling out?
No. Leave them as is.
Let it weather for 2-3 months. Clean and brighten for prep.
we just built new deck with PT.do we let it sit or clean and then stain.we live in northern ontario canada.we plan to use AC stain
Sand first then clean and brighten after for the old deck.
I need to sand my old deck – should I do it before I apply the cleaner or when is the best time to do this?
I need to sand my old deck to smooth out some rough spots. Should I do this before I apply the cleaner and brightener or when?
hemali, best to clean and brighten the wood for the prep with the Restore A Deck Kit. Stain with Armstrong Clark stain.
We had a pressure treated pine deck built in Aug. 2013 and let it weather over the winter months. When I sprayed down the deck yesterday with water, water still beads on the surface. There is no sign of mildew, mold, or graying wood. Would using only the Brightener help to prep the deck for stain? I was hoping to stain before the summer months. Thank you!
Jim, if the wood is smooth then yes. If rough sawn, you can stain right away without the prep.
is this true for new cedar fences too?
Wait a month or two and clean and brighten the deck for the prep. Samples are here: http://www.opwdecks.com/wood-stain-samples.htm
I’ve been trying to read through the comments to avoid having to write this. However, I remain confused, and reading 900 or more entries is tiresome. So, I have a large new cedar deck already installed. I’ve done nothing to the surface. It has a good deal of direct sunlight on 1/2 of the deck. I want to use the TimberOil because of the paraffins. I realize I’ll need to clean, but not sure if I need to brighten. I hope to have this done this October which will be about 6 to 8 weeks after installation. What do I do? Also, are the sample kits available and how much are they? Thanks for your help.
Rick
I would not seal all sides. No need. Look at Timber oil Brand if you want to stain soon. With Defy you would need to wait 3-6 months and clean/brighten to prep.
Brand new 5/4 x 4 western red cedar on a rental house. No time to space/stack wood and let it dry. Not much interested in drying/cleaning/brightening process on this rental. Should I seal all 4 sides before installation? Wait and seal only the top later in the summer? Best product to use? (I have been using Defy for hardwoods on my own deck at home.) Don’t care about the color.