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Many homeowners struggle with all of the different stain brands and how to stain their deck properly. Main concerns are an uneven appearance and not having enough time to finish the project. Applying an exterior wood stain actually can be an easy and fast process when you utilize the proper steps.
Please take the time to read these tips:
- Choose a stain that is correct for your deck. There is not a “best” stain for all scenarios. Certain stains though will work better based on your climate, exposure to UV radiation, and type of wood. Please visit Exterior Wood Stains. On this page you will find a product filter that is very useful in finding the best stain or sealer for your wood. If you still have difficulty choosing please ask us for some help: Exterior Staining Questions
- Once you have chosen your stain it is important that the deck is properly prepped. Prepping the wood is the most important aspect in the entire process. This will ensure that your stain can properly adhere and penetrate into the wood. Improper preparation typically leads to premature stain failure. The cleaning, brightening and or stain stripping should be done at least 48 hours prior to applying the stain.
- On the day of staining make sure there is no rain in the forecast for at least 12-24 hours. Remove all furniture from deck and surrounding areas. Cover with plastic tarps all shrubs and flowers. Careful to not suffocate the plants. If there are any concrete patios nearby, it would be best to cover them as well.
- We suggest the use of stain pad applicators and or a pump type sprayer. The stain pads allow you to “push” the stain into the wood while at the same time applying evenly. Sprayers are optional as they will speed up the process but can create accidental over spray.
- Always start with the railings if applicable. Using the stain pad, apply the stain from the top down. Do in sections of about 4-6 feet before moving on. It is important to wipe any excessive stain that accumulates on the flooring. If using a sprayer, make sure that watch any over spray onto the house or plants. Look over the area for drips and missed spots prior to moving on. Tip: Fill a small hand held sprayer bottle with some stain. This will help you reach small areas where the pad cannot reach.
- After all the railings are done double check for any missed spots or drips. Best to touch these up before the stain dries.
- Applying the stain to the flooring is the easiest step. Make sure that you apply with the grain of the wood and always do the entire board end to end before moving on. Tip: Use the Deck Mop to make the step extremely fast.
- Many stains are considered two coats or “wet on wet”. This means that you apply the second coat while the first coat is still wet or not completely dry. It is always best to thoroughly read and follow the manufacturer’s directions on this. Tip: It is not always needed to apply two coats to the verticals/railings. The stain will last longer on these areas since they are less exposed to the elements.
- When done with the staining make sure to remove all plastic tarps off the plants. If you used an oil based stain, do not leave any oily rags inside the garage or home. Let the stain dry for at least 24 hours before putting any furniture on the wood.
If you have any questions on how to stain a deck please ask below. All questions are typically answered within a day.
Hi there, my new installed deck has some spots of green sticky material (feels like asphalt / syrup), applied twice deck wood cleaner and scrubbed, but the green sticky material doesn’t go. What can I do? Thank you!
Try sanding it off. It is leaching from the wood internally.
What is the advantage of Armstrong stain over TWP?
None. They both are excellent and last about the same.
Good Afternoon, I have a dock in Jax Beach on Intracoastal that started in March and terminal was completed in August. Looking for suggestions on sealer/stain for walkway and rails. Would like the wet look on walkway and a little darker stain on rails. Also, our house is under construction and looking for best stain on Pine T&G on ceiling in outdoor living area. Thx
See here about new wood: https://www.opwdecks.com/when-to-stain-a-new-deck.htm
Look at using the Armstrong Clark. https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
I have an older cedar deck that needs to be re-stained. I’m planning to clean and brighten it but I need to replace some of the boards. I want to use the TWP101 stain. Should I weather the new boards (for how long) first and then stain the whole deck? Do I need to apply 2 coats (wet-on-wet)?
How much stain would I need for a 70′ x 13′ deck?
Weather for 4+months and then prep and stain all. We would need a total sq footage oof wood that will be stained added up to help with the amount needed.
Thank you. The deck surface with railings and such is roughly 910 sq ft.
About 8-10 gallons for the two coats.
We have a deck that had a thick coating on it. We tried numerous methods to remove the tough coating, to no avail. So the main part of the deck is coming down and we have purchased pressure treated lumber that is drying in the garage right now. Our intent is to pre-stain the lumber before assembling the deck. Our choice is oil stain. We live in northern Wisconsin. What is your advice on pre-staining the lumber and using oil stain? How long does the lumber have to dry before applying the stain?
You cannot prestain wood. It needs to be exposed outside and weatherEd for 3-4 months or longer after install. Clean and then brighten wood. Apply just one coat to exposed wood.
If you use one type of sealer can you do a different sealer when it’s time to reseal
You would have to strip off the Penofin to switch brands.
What are your thoughts on penifin
We stopped selling it as we had lots of complaints of it turning black in color after 6-12 months. It is a known issue if you search it up.
How do you stain an older redwood deck? Do you need to use a different stain?
Any stain we sell will work as long as it prepped correctly.
We live in Washington Crossing, PA. We have a new pine deck that has weathered for nine months. We are planning on preparing it prior to staining per this site’s instructions. The deck is in the sun all day and gets much hotter than the air temperature. We want to stain it a rich, red/brown. Please advise and thank you!
Try Armstrong Clark in Rustic Brown or Brown Oak: https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
Thank you!
We went with semitransparent Brown. We followed the directions to the letter! It was challenging cleaning and brightening, but well worth the effort. The deck is stunning. TY for the GREAT products and direction! Would not use any other products than these. You cannot find this quality in any home improvement store! So happy!
How do I avoid a visible “line” if I stain a large deck over two days? (i.e.stain half one day and the other half the next?)
You cannot. Need to do it all at once.
Hoping for help in Ohio. I had new deck flooring installed that needs to be stained. Looking to use Armstrong Clark Semi Solid for application on new flooring. My question is that I want to change the coloring of the existing railing. It is stained a dark brown (stain about 5 years old) and would like to have the railings be an tannish color as I am looking for a two tone appearance. Can I use latex exterior paint over the existing stain? Do I need to strip off existing stain? Apply primer over? or do i need to do something totally different? thanks
Strip off what you can and then use the solid stain over the rest. No need for a primer. BTW, AC semi-solid cannot be used on new wood unless it has seasoned for 12 months and then prepped.
Thank you on the railing question. Should I use semi transparent or do I have to leave “naked” for the year?
Semi-transparent will need to weather for 3-4 months.
HI I have a cedar deck in Victoria BC that needs redoing. I have used Sikkens products in the past and it is too much work to maintain. Am now prepared to change to a stain either solid or semi transparent Defy Extreme seems to have good reviews.
1. Can you ship to Victoria?
2. Would stripping, sanding be best prep?
3. Husband asking if any product can go on top of Sikkens?
Open to all advice
No, nothng can go on top of the Sikkens. It has to be sanded off. Once removed, look at TWP 200 Series: https://www.opwdecks.com/twp-200-series.htm
We ship to Canada.
What are the smallest quantity of this product you could could ship Do you have gallon containers? I would do this deck in stages.
Thanks
stephanie
the TWP 200 comes in single gallons.
Is a newly Sanded deck considered “new wood” with the TWP wet on wet application . The deck is otherwise six years old.
Ony use one coat of the TWP 200 for this.
What is the difference between the 200 series and the 1500 series? I ordered the 200 series cedartone but find it is quite dark, on some boards dark brown. Without any light reflection it will appear that much darker than expected. In the 1500 series it appears brighter comparing the swatches. So back to the question – whats the difference between the 2 series?
The 200 Series will lighten up. It can take up to 14 days for it to do this. The 1500 is not allowed in Canada due to VOC laws and that is the main difference.
I had an deck build in August of last year, 2019. Do I need to put an waterproofer under the deck floor or just leave the decking bare?
No need to stain or seal the bottom side of a deck.
Do I have to sand before staining. I have some blanks with wording on it and some railings have splintered
Prep yes, but you do not have to sand.
this is so helpful…..i am so ready to stain my deck, which has weathered heavy rain and 2 atlanta winters; that have left my deck gray, ugly and a few stains (one nice size from a turkey fryer spill). i was told there wasnt a need to power wash, but to clean with a deck cleaner wait 24hrs and stain. do i need to seal deck with a polyurethane? prime the wood? or can i just stain? ??????????? do not want my DIY to go bad. thank you.
You need to use a deck cleaner and then pressure wash it off and a Brightener after. Never use polyurethane on a deck. Use a penetrating stain like Armstrong Clark: https://www.opwdecks.com/armstrong-clark-stain.htm
I read on another site not to sand the new deck, they suggest: 1) leave it for 1-12 months, or use 1 of the advised stain brands to shorten this to 1-3 months), 2) use a wood cleaner and brightener, 3) let it dry for a few days, 4) TIP; do not sand, 5) apply 1 coat of wood stain, 6) apply a 2nd coat 12-18 months later.
Im getting confused at what moment you should sand the deck and if you need to use a wood primer for the next coat of stain?
No, do not use a primer. No need to sand a new deck.
We just moved into a new house. The new deck was built 6 months ago and hasn’t been stained. I had to add a section of railing and build a gate for baby-proofing. Will the existing deck be ok for another 3 months so I can stain it all at the same time?
Yes. Best to do it all at once.
I got an estimate for staining my new deck and the estimate includes applying epoxy. Why would the deck need epoxy? Isn’t that glue? Should I be concerned about this?
You cannot use an epoxy on a wood deck.
We live near Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. We installed a new wood deck (#1 lumber) in June 2018 and let it sit since install. Almost entire deck is in direct sunlight. We would like to stain/seal now. Am I right in assuming we do the following steps:
1. Powerwash
2. Use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner
3. Use Restore-A-Deck Brightener
4. apply semi-transparent stain
5. apply waterseal/clear topcoat?
Also, when applying stain- if common technique is two coats, wet on wet, do you just do a small section at a time to reach all boards without stepping on freshly stained boards? How long dry time between the wet on wet coats- within minutes?
How long should we wait between stain application and watersealer application?
You pressure wash after the RAD Cleaner. You rinse with a pressure washer after the brightener. Depending on the stain you choose, you can do two coats wet on wet if allowed. Apply to all and then reapply to all 20-6 minutes later. Do not do in sections. You can walk on wet stain for the second coat.
You never apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Hello, I have a deck that was built 8 months ago. Half of the deck is covered by a roof. What will be the best stain to use and does it need to be preped before staining? I would also like to keep a light color would that be recommended?
Thank you,
Jose
See this about new wood and tips of how to prep and stain: https://www.opwdecks.com/when-to-stain-a-new-deck.htm
Is sanding a 3 month old redwood deck in lieu of using a deck cleaner
Sanding is not the best way to prep. Closes the wood grain. You want the wood porous and slightly rough so the stain can soak deeper into the wood grain.
Do you need to use a deck cleaner and or deck brightener on a 3 month old redwood deck
Yes, it is best.
I’m in Central Florida & just want to put down a deck around one side of my koi pond. It’s about a 500 sq. ft. area. I was just going to use treated 2 x 4’s. So I guess my question is I want a cedar/walnut stain coating but assume I would still add a clear coat sealer afterwards to maintain the look & longevity. I can’t wait or physically strip the seasoned 2 x 4’s after 3-12 month due to hundreds of various palms & other plants in order to get the stain to work & I want to finish this in 2-3 days. Should I just use non treated 2 x 4’s on top & then stain with the cedar/walnut finish & the next day or two apply the clear coat sealer to finish? And the other question is it possible to use a inexpensive 2-3gln weed/lawn hand sprayer to apply both the stain & sealer?
Thanks
Hello,
You cannot apply a clear coat sealer over top of a deck stain. It will not soak in and will ruin the deck stain. You also should not stain brand new wood now. The wood needs to season for 3-4 months at a minimum and must be cleaned and brightened for the prep after the wait, prior to staining.
[quote name=”mlingga”]Hi! We had a new porch built a year ago using thermally modified hardwood lumber. it was stained by contractor with AC semitrans stain. Since then, the wood has been easily stained by oil or standing water, and I wonder if it was poorly prepped or stained. I want to restain with the AC: is there any special prep given the poor take of the first application, or just the standard routine?[/quote]
Prep with the Restore A Deck Stripper Kit so it is down to the bare wood:
https://www.opwdecks.com/restore-a-deck-stain-stripper.htm
Hi! We had a new porch built a year ago using thermally modified hardwood lumber. it was stained by contractor with AC semitrans stain. Since then, the wood has been easily stained by oil or standing water, and I wonder if it was poorly prepped or stained. I want to restain with the AC: is there any special prep given the poor take of the first application, or just the standard routine?
Use a deck stain pad for the spindles.
I have 2 decks, upper and lower and both are L shaped. In all there are 280 lathed spindles. The bottom of the upper deck is 8′ above the lower and all spindles on the upper are done from an extension ladder. I’m looking for suggestions on applicators that would work best. Thanks!
Use a stain stripper and pressure wash off. You may need to strip a few times to get it all off.
I applied Thompson water sealer with a pump sprayer on my large decks. Obviously applying way to much… Now it won’t dry and is very very slippery. What do I do?
The Chapin Heavy Duty is the 1949.
You noted that the chapin 1949 sprayer would be good to use with the TWP 100 series. Which is the 1949 model on your website- the chapin clean and stain sprayer or the chapin heavy duty sprayer. Also is it better to use a staining pad to apply the stain rather than spraying? Thanks for your help.
Nina, wait 2-3 monhts to season, prep first with Restore A Deck Kits, stain with the Armstrong Clark.
New pressure treated wood deck with #1 grade boards being built in August, 2014, in N.E. Indiana. Sections of the deck will be in full sun, some in part sun and some always in light shade. When will be the best time to stain and which product do you recommend? Thank you.
Try the Chapin 1949 sprayer that we sell. Mix well before adding to sprayer and it will be fine for an hour or longer. You could always shake the sprayer to remix once in awhile.
What’s the best way to keep TWP series 100 stain well mixed when using a sprayer- the pigment tends to settle out of solution. Also what type of sprayer is best? I’ve had trouble with nozzle clogging using a garden sprayer with an oil based stain in the past. Thanks for the help.
No need to stain the underside.
Should I stain the underside of a deck that is on the 2nd floor of a home? It is 50 x 9 feet and runs the entire length of the house. It is about 6 feet off the ground, over a concrete slab.
If the wood was dry then it is probably okay and does not need to be done again. High humidity and wind does not matter.
As for walking on the stain, it depends on the brand but most brands do not suggest it.
I had a crew stain my wooden decks last April. Here in Detroit there were strong storms all day. I’m sure just from the humidity there will be problems. The deck was sheltered from the actual rain. Am I thinking correctly or should I plan on doing it again. There were also 50 mph gusts of wind.
On another matter, my neighbor told me I could walk on the stain after putting it down without leaving foot prints. I applied it heavily and took a couple of steps in it and he was right there were no prints left. Is this normal? thanks
I would back wipe the entire deck with some mineral spirits to remove the excess stain right away. Make sure to saturate the rags with water when done to avoid spontaneous combustion.
I recently stained my hard wood deck and think I made some mistakes. I stained the wood Thursday afternoon and came out my door thinking it would be dry by the next day. As it turns out there many puddles of stain remaining. I slipped on one of them and went flying. I tried to show my landlord where it occurred but couldn’t find marks showing exactly where it happened. There also were no foot prints to look at. Is this normal for an over stained job? thanks… Mike
Tara, try some paint thinner on the rags first then wipe down to remove the excess stain. Make sure to saturate the rags with water when done to avoid spontaneous combustion.
I recently purchased and applied the Armstrong/clark hardwood stain on ipe. After 1 week the deck is still wet (it’s actuall the floor of a 3 season room. I’ve wiped the decking with a dry rag many times and each time my rag comes up with stain on it. How do I remove the leftover oils such that the decking is safe to walk on without staining cloths and/or feet.
The guy at Kelly Moore is correct and your friend is not.
I recently had a deck replaced. The guy at Kelly suggested I let the deck weather before staining it, and this is the advice given here, so that’s good to know.
I have a friend who insists that we goofed and should have stained the boards before assembled so it can be coated all the way around the boards. It makes some sense, particularly because I live up in Truckee, CA at elevation ~6500 so I do get a fair amount of snow.
Do you have a comment on this? Thanks so much!
Best,
Audrey
It is very difficult to spot sand but you could try one knot to see if it works otherwise you will need to strip and sand the entire deck. Clean and brighten when done then apply the Extreme Clear.
Hello,
I have a cedar deck, unfinished, and weathered for 7 months.
I cleaner and brighten the wood.
Allowed to dry for 48 hours.
Prior to applying Defy Extreme Crystal Clear i noticed some minimal hazy wood fibres around the knots of the wood … looked like remnant mildew perhaps?
I debated whether or not to sand it off…. i chose not to…sadly
I applied the Defy Clear as recommended during shade warm temperature 20 degree Celsius, although after complete dry time the finish looks dull and the knots remain with slight grey hazy patches around knots
The Defy Clear has dried well, its not shiny and absorbed well, water beads off nicely when wet; yet the Cedar feels hard to touch…just curious is this normal?
I wish to remove the “grey” patchy spots – in order to have a complete uniform look and natural color.
What should i do?
Do i sand down the patchy spots? or sand all the deck boards? what grit?
if i do sand, should i clean and brighten again?
Now that you sanded you should use a cleaner and brightener to finish the prep. Deck Stains are sealers as well. I would look at the Armstrong Clark decking stain.
Dear Sir–
I got a new PT wood deck at my Maryland home in January. I read on the Internet to let the wood dry thoroughly at least 3 months prior to staining, but after just 4 months the deck had issues with “raised grain” as I guess it does not take as long for 5/4″ boards to dry and the sun took a toll on it. Anyway, the contractor came back today and power sanded the boards which I’m not sure was a good idea for new wood (from what I’ve read) and he should have probably used sandpaper to take care of the raised grain. With all this in mind, would you suggest I put a sealer on it or a stain. The contractor told me sealers are better than stains. And how long should I wait now that it’s been power sanded? This deck is really stressing me out.
You did a few things wrong:
1. New wood should dry and weather for a few months before staining.
2. All new wood should be prepped with a deck cleaner and brightener to open the pores and remove mill glaze.
3. You over applied the stain.
You will need to remove the stain and start over to fix this.