Must Read!
Top 10 Myths for Exterior Wood and Deck Restoration
1. New wood does not need to be cleaned. This is not true. New wood needs to be prepped with a wood cleaner and a wood brightener. This will remove dirt, grime, and mill glaze. These two steps will “open” the wood pores allowing the stain to penetrate better. The better the wood stain absorbs, the better it will work.
2. If I apply an extra coat it will last longer. Applying extra coatings will not make the stain last longer. This will cause a “buildup” of the stain on top of the surface instead of penetrating “into” the surface. In actuality over application can cause the stain to prematurely fail.
3. Wood or Deck Stripping is Difficult. Stripping the wood of an old transparent or semi-transparent stain is not that difficult, but it does depend on the finish and amount of previous coatings. The Wood Stripper works by penetrating through the old coating and “softening” the bond between the wood cells and the stain. In many cases, it is easier and more beneficial to use a wood stripper instead of a wood cleaner.
4. Applying a Water-Based Stain is easier than applying an Oil-Based. In our opinion, it is just as easy or easier to apply an oil-based wood stain. Water-based stains will dry faster than oil-based. It can be beneficial to have a stain that does not dry too fast. Less chance for overlaps.
5. A deck can be properly prepped for $99. The $99 Deck Cleaning coupon from a local pressure washing company is a marketing gimmick. To properly prep your wood you will need to use a wood stripper or wood cleaner followed by a wood brightener. It is just impossible to have your deck prepped for $99 properly. Be aware of any contractor who says they can do this for a “cheap” price. They will probably end up damaging your wood.
6. Extended Warranties. Any warranty that claims over 2 years on a horizontal surface is either limited or is playing the numbers game on claims. Nothing will look perfect after two to three years. They will all wear and most importantly fade from the UV exposure. If you read the warranty claims you will see they are limited by saying words such as “resists fading” or “normal wear and tear”. At best all you will get is product replacement.
7. Beading Water is Important. This is just plain wrong. Beading water is a misconception that consumers expect after seeing television commercials saying it is important. The only way to bead water is to seal the surface completely by using a wax or silicone. It is better to have a wood stain that “sheds” water and still allows the wood to be able to breathe.
8. No need to use a Wood Brightener. The use of a wood Brightener is essential to neutralize the pH balance of the wood after the use of a Wood Stripper or Wood Cleaner. This will lighten the wood and give your stain better results! It is also the easiest and least expensive step in the entire process.
9. Big Box Stores sell the best products. Most of the products you find at Big Box stores are mediocre at best. In fact, many of these products have major issues and some even have had class action lawsuits against them.
10. Wood Stains should be “shiny” like my hardwood floor. This is actually a very bad idea. When you apply a wood stain that builds like a varnish on your wood, you will have many issues. The finish will blister and peel. In addition, it will be extremely difficult or impossible to fix. Most likely sanding of the deck will be needed. It is best to have a wood or deck stain the penetrates into the wood leaving a dull or “matte” finish.
Other Related Must Reads!
- 101 Wood Deck Restoration Tips
- Stain a Deck in Two Hours
- Wood and Deck Cleaning Tips
- Wood and Deck Stripping Tips
- Wood and Deck Brightening Tips
- Wood and Deck Pressure Washing Tips
So what I am reading is that you might get two years out of a stain. Does that mean you have to go through the whole process of stripping, sanding, brightening, rinsing again before you apply more stain?
No, just clean and reapply as needed.
I am replacing some sections of my cedar deck (green cedar) then stripping old finish off remaining boards. Would you recommend stripping old stuff first, then replace boards, then apply brightener? Or will it be ok to install the new boards, then apply stripper to entire deck, followed by brightener? I don’t want to damage my new boards. Thanks!
Stain strippers will not damage new wood.
How important is it to use a wood brightener immediately after using a stain stripper? Can we do it the next day or even a few days after removing all the stain?
As soon as possible after stripping for best results.
I recently stripped a semitransparent stain off my pressure treated deck and used a power washer to remove the stripper and old finish. It now needs to be sanded to remove wood fuzz/loose fibers and smooth it out (10+year old wood but was well-preserved). What is the correct order of the next steps…do I need to use wood cleaner, followed by brightener? Or only brightener? Where does standing fall into the steps? Also, the deck has a new addition with new wood which flows seamlessly from the old/existing deck, so does that portion need to be treated differently?
Sand 60-80 grit and then brightener last. New wood needs to weather for 3+ months and then cleaned and brightened for prep.
Thanks. After letting the new portion of the deck weather, is it necessary to apply cleaner, then brightener? Or would only brightener be okay if I lightly power washed it first?
Doing both steps will give better penetration for the wood stain.
If I’m only pressure-washing my deck and not using a stripper or cleaner, is there any need for a brightener? Or is the sole purpose of the brightener to restore proper ph after using other chemicals?
Restore pH balance and remove deeper discolorations that a cleaner will not remove.
I used a solid stain on my deck and it’s peeling. I’ve sanded and cleaned it with a solution of TSP and water. When I rinsed the deck more paint peeled off. I decided to redo it with a deck paint instead of stain. What other steps should I take to prep for painting.
You want a solid stain, not a paint for a deck. Spot sand all loose or peeling stain and then cover with a new coat of solid stain.
Hello, I have installed new wood for decking (very standard PT board). I was wondering if a wood stripper is better than a wood cleaner? I was reading it does a more intense job, I was thinking this would save some scrubbing, but now I’m thinking that it might be overkill for new boards. Also, should I bother to sand some slightly rough spots or better off just going right to staining (after just a clean and brighten).
Do not use a stripper on a new deck. Use a deck cleaner and then a wood brightener after the wait. https://www.opwdecks.com/when-to-stain-a-new-deck.htm
Sorry but another question. Wife got wood brightener on out stained cedar siding and it dried. Is this going to ruin the current stain
It shouldn’t.
I have a vacation home in the Mountains of North Carolina, where it is very wet and cool. This makes it extremely difficult to plan deck staining, painting, or any outside work. We only use the place now in 7-10 day intervals, which really makes things much harder. We are lucky to have 3 days without moisture of some sort. We cleaned the deck with a stiff bristle brush and a deck cleaner last fall. The wood got very clean, but not tremendously bright . We had not intended on cleaning it this May. After reading several opinions and watching several videos, we have determined we will never have time to use a brightener, as this will cut into our time to do the work, by adding at least 3 more days for drying. Can we apply stain now in May, after the wood sat over the winter? I am assuming that subsequent rains and snow would have neutralized some or most of the cleaner that we used last fall, but maybe not. The deck has been dry for 2 days and we are hoping to start applying stain, after using a blower and a thorough sweeping. I am realistic that the wood will not look amazing, as parts of the deck are perhaps more than 30 years old. I also know that I want to get some sort of penetrating sealer on it to enhance and protect the deck. We may only be able to do this in sections, as chance of rain is every 3 or 4 days up here..What do you suggest we do? Stain away after additional sweeping? Let the wood continue to weather and attempt to do another time? Burn the deck down and start over, hoping maybe the house goes too, get an insurance claim, and start from scratch? jk, on the last statement.
Using the brightener is the same days as the cleaner and does not add any days. You cannot stain after your prep last Fall. It will need to be prepped again. Let dry for two days and stain.
Is the deck cleaner and brightner all in one product okay to use?
It is not possible to have a cleaner and brightener in one. The brightener neutralizes a cleaner so it would be ineffective to combine them.
[quote name=”Craig A. Arthur”]unfortunately I added an additional coating of stain on a newly sanded deck. Yep, it didn’t dry. I was told to use mineral spirits to help remove the oily buildup or TIDE powder. Has anyone used these solutions or know of another one? Would TSP work?[/quote]
Remove all and start over is really the best way to fix.
unfortunately I added an additional coating of stain on a newly sanded deck. Yep, it didn’t dry. I was told to use mineral spirits to help remove the oily buildup or TIDE powder. Has anyone used these solutions or know of another one? Would TSP work?
It will help to brighten the wood after sanding and rinse the wood as well to remove any sand dust. This will make the wood more porous for the stain.
I cleaned my deck with deck cleaner approximately a month ago. We sanded railings so far and plan on sanding floor. Was I supposed to use wood brightner before sanding or after? Or do I even need wood brightner if sanding?
Rough sawn wood in general can be stained right away as long at the wood is dry. Smooth new wood that has mill glaze needs to season out in the open and be prepped with a cleaner and wood brightener. You did complicate it somewhat with the sanding but since you used only 40 grit then washed to “swell” the wood pores, I think you are still fine to stain now without any other prep. Try an oil based stain that is penetrating like the Armstrong Clark or the TWP Stains. Probably just one coat.
I have red cedar rough sawn into 1×6 planks about 15 years ago. it has been indoor stored and stickered ever since. some of it, I have long-board power sanded, one side, with 40 grit to remove the saw marks. The sanded and the unsanded boards have been power washed with 800 psi, water only. they were then moved back inside, stickered and turned to dry. they are now fully dry.
My Question. why would I use a cleaner or brightener on this wood. AND why would an oil stain not penetrate perfectly fine into this wood?
HI THERE
Will I need a wood brightener and stain for my deck to seal it for the winter after I have removed the old stain
I was told that the brighter is sufficient for the NY horrible winters at home depot..
You cannot fix warping boards but you can clean, brighten and stain to give the wood some more life.
my house is 30 years old, and has turned black, the wood on the back side is drawing up, I know we will have to replace it, but is it possible to save the rest of the wood, without going broke it is all cedar
I have a 7 year old cedar deck with Sikkens SRD on it now. I am sanding the wood to remove all trace of Sikkens prior to staining with A-C semi-transparent stain. Do I need to apply a wood brightener after sanding?
For one the deck when stained will be slightly darker as the cleaner will raise the pH, darkening the appearance. The other reason if you leave caustics from the cleaner in the wood and not neutralize, you can have a negative reaction with the stain.
What is the negative result of having not used a brightener on pressure treated pine, once cleaned with Olympic cleanser and pressure rinsed, when an oil-based stain is to follow?
Absolutely not true. Cleaners and stain strippers are mild caustics that will raise the pH. It is very noticeable and will darken the overall appearance of the wood. The wood brightener is a mild acid that cancels or “neutralizes” the caustics. This results in lightening or “brightening” of the wood’s appearance. As for opening the pores, a mild acid will help to remove mill glaze on new wood.
But I also read that if you use a brightener (oxalic acid) that it too needs to be neutralized (with something like boric acid), the buying of products never ends.:(
No, that is incorrect. You cannot neutralize an acid with another acid. You use the brighteners to neutralize the strippers. Stripper raises the pH and the Brightener lowers it back down to neutral.
Using Wood Brightener is nothing but a useless invention by the industry. The instructions say to wash thoroughly after applying, so how can you “change pH” if any residue is washed away ??. Wood by itself, has no pH, only water of all chemicals in this world has pH. And how exactly acidity of the Brightener will open up pores in the wood ? I’m yet to get an answer on that.
I believe the Behr warranty is 5 or 7 years. Either way it is a joke as is any warranty that claims more then a couple of years on a horizontal surface.
This comment was overheard from a Behr representative at a national convention this Spring:
“Our deck stain peels like a snake shedding its skin after one season” That is very true. Too bad they make up the ridiculous warranties 😮
I had a perspective customer once that insisted I apply a Behr Stain to his deck that claimed to have a 25 year warranty. I tried to explain to him how the warranties worked, but he still believed in the 25 year warranty.
I actually went on line and found the small print that went with the warranty. The deck had to first be cleaned with Behr’s wood cleaner. The have Behr’s wood brightener applied. (neither of which are contractor grade products). Then the wood had to be a certain moisture content. I agree with this but read on.
The stain then had to be applied at a specific rate and at a specific mill thickness.
If all these things were met and the stain failed, Behr reserved to right to determine the final decision to honor the warranty at their discretion. Then they reserved the right to replace the stain at a prorated cost of the original purchase and only then if you still had proof of that purchase IE cash register receipt.
So if you paid $100.00 for your 25 year warranty stain and if you did everything right to the letter, Behr might give you back $10.00.
I wouldn’t use the product he insisted on and the owner found a local painter that gladly applied the the homeowners choice of product. It would be interesting to know what the owner thinks about his stain choice now because these stains do fail and looks horrible in a couple of years if that long. But, I didn’t see anything in that warranty that said the deck would look good for 25 years.