Friday, September 03, 2010

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101 Wood Deck Restoration Tips!

Must Read! The Most Complete List of Do's and Don'ts for Wood Deck Restoration.

Wess_avatar have been in business since 1993 and have used or sold close to a 1/2 Million gallons of wood stain. These wood and deck restoration tips have come from hands-on experience. A lot of them learned the hard way .Frown Please read this thoroughly as you are sure to learn a few that will make your deck project a success!

We suggest printing this article and reading it a few times before starting your deck restoration project.

Always – Wood Deck Restoration Preparation/Cleaning Tips you should Always Use:

1. Use the best deck restoration products that are available. This will make a huge difference on longevity and when it comes time to restore again in the future.

2. Clean and prep the wood first! Even if it is new. Prepping the wood properly will ensure maximum stain performance.

3. Use biodegradable wood cleaners, strippers, and brighteners.

4. Wear protective clothing during the prepping process.

5. Thoroughly rinse the wood deck cleaner, stripper, and brightener after each step.

6. If a wood deck cleaner, stripper, or brightener comes in contact with your skin or eyes be sure to rinse immediately!

7. Use a wood deck brightener after the use of a wood deck stripper to neutralize the pH balance. Do this as soon as you are finished with the stripping process while the wood is still wet!

8. Use extreme caution when using a pressure washer to not damage the wood or yourself.

9. When washing with a pressure washer make sure to wash with the grain of the wood.

10. When using a pressure washer make sure to wash with a pendulum motion. Try not to reverse your motion until you are at the high point of the arc. If you do not do this you may see marks or gouges in the wood. Do not get too close to the wood. 8-12 inches away from the wood.

11. Rinse the house after the cleaning process. This will rinse off the wood fibers and dirt. It is much harder to get them off after they dry on windows and siding.

12. Move patio furniture at least 30 feet away from the wood or deck. This will minimize accidental over spray.

13. Cover any electrical outlets when washing the deck. You do not want to find out later that your freezer in the basement was off for a few days because the circuit breaker was tripped!

14. Close any doors or windows that are in close proximity of the deck when you are washing.

15. When hiring it is best to choose a Wood Restoration Contractor who is established and has references if you ask. Never hire a contractor who stuck a flyer in your mailbox.

16. Use Stainless steel or galvanized nails, screws, and brackets for replacement wood. You will see black rusts streaks if you do not.

Always – Wood Deck Restoration Staining Tips you should Always Use:

17. Pick the correct deck stain color. You really do not want to do the whole process over again or have your spouse upset.

18. Protect house from stain over spray by masking where needed.

19. Wear old clothes when staining. It will get on you!

20. Wear gloves when staining.

21. Apply the wood stain in the direction of the wood grain.

22. Apply stain evenly.

23. Tarp Plants and bushes from stain.

24. Back brush drips and "thick" areas when staining.

25. Use high quality brushes, stain pads, and rollers.

26. Protect stain from dripping into water if near a pool, lake, or pond.

27. Cover concrete and pavers! The stain will not come out easily of you drip on to them.

28. Use plastics or poly tarps when covering plants and concrete. Wood stains will bleed through canvas tarps.

29. Apply the wood stain to the verticals (railings, fencing, trellis, etc.) first and do the horizontals last. You do not want to walk on the fresh stain.

30. If you need to apply a second coat it may be okay to walk on the first coating prior to drying. Make sure though that you do not leave any footprints in your second coating. Please follow manufacturer's directions as all stains differ on the amount of coatings suggested and application methods.

31. Follow the wood stain manufacturer’s directions! They are there for a reason.

32. When using more than 1 gallon or pail, it is best to mix them all together first to ensure even color.

33. If you are sanding the wood make sure that it is even! Spot sanding can cause the wood stain to penetrate unevenly.

34. When "edging" out the house where the decking butts up, it is best to stagger your stain line. This will reduce the chance of having an overlap line when you finish the rest of the flooring.

35. When staining the flooring it is a best practice to stain the entire board(s) from end to end before moving on to the next board.

36. When using a pump sprayer it is best to use a high quality one. Cheap plastic sprayers that are not designed for wood deck restoration can clog and leak.

37. With a pump sprayer it is best to use a "fan" tip and not the circular "cone" tip. It will spray wood stains better.

38. Make sure to thoroughly mix your stain prior to filling your pump sprayer. Always pour directly from the can, never from your paint tray. This will reduce any chance of clogging the sprayer.

39. If using the pump sprayer to apply the stain to the decking floor, it is a must that you also back wipe to ensure uniformity when dry. The use of a stain pad attached to a pole is best for this.

40. If using a sprayer on the railings it is important to back wipe the excess stain that accumulates on the flooring below the railings. If you do not do this you may have shiny spots and or a darker color below the railings compared to the rest of the flooring.

41. Do railings that are directly next to the house with a stain pad or brush. Do not use a sprayer here as it will get all over the windows and siding. We would not suggest spraying the railings until you are at least 4-6 feet away from the house.

42. Use a tarp on the outside edge of the deck to catch any over spray.

43. Let wood stain dry completely prior to walking on the decking. Especially if you walk into your house as you can track stain onto the floor!

44. Leave furniture off deck until completely dry.

45. When using a water-based wood stain make sure that you clean your application tools with water as soon as you’re done.

46. When using an oil-based wood stain make sure that you clean your application tools with mineral spirits or paint thinner as soon as you’re done.

47. Final wood stain color is dependent on the age of the wood, type of wood, application of wood stain, and preparation (cleaning) of the wood.

Never - Wood Deck Restoration Preparation/Cleaning Tips:

48. Never hire a $99 deck wash contractor. Honestly common sense please!

49. Never hire a contractor who buys his materials at Home Depot. Any experienced wood restoration contractors knows there is much better materials and stains elsewhere.

50. Never use a pressure washer without cleaners. It can damage the deck if you do not use the proper cleaners.

51. Never use steel wool to sand the wood. This will leave metal in the wood that will turn black from rust.

52. Never sand the wood too smooth! This could cause the stain to not absorb into the wood and prematurely fail! 60 grit sandpaper is best.

53. Never use household bleach to clean the wood. Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) has been proven to damage the cellular structure of the wood.

54. Never use the Red Tip that comes with your pressure washer. This is a "zero" tip and you will damage your wood.

55. Never let your wood stripper or cleaner dry on the wood during the washing process. Try to keep the wood wet throughout the entire process.

56. Never use interior wood filler on your outside deck. It will not work. The stain will not color the filler and it will just "fall" out after a short period of time.

57. Never allow pets to walk on the deck during the entire process. If they walk on the deck during the washing process they make get a chemical reaction from the cleaners on their paws. While the deck is drying it is best to keep them off if possible to minimize dirt and mud from being tracked on to the wood. If they walk on the stain while wet it can make them sick. Pets have a tendency to clean themselves and stain getting into their system is not a good idea.

58. Never plant new annuals near the deck prior to starting your refinishing. Tarps and cleaners can damage them. It is best to wait until after you are done. If it is too late make sure to tarp using stakes. In addition remove the tarps as soon as possible to reduce any chance of damaging the flowers from excessive heat.

Never - Wood Deck Restoration Staining Tips:

59. Never believe over-hyped extended stain warranties! Honestly nothing will look like new on a horizontal surface after 2-3 years. Warranties that claim 5, 6 and even 10 years are impossible. They are betting that high sales volumes will overcome their warranty claims. Typically these warranties are "limited" and if you were to make a claim all you would get is product replacement at best. Never will they reimburse you for your hard work and time. It's just a numbers game to these corporations. This is also why you will never see a high quality wood deck stain brand in a "big box" store.

60. Never use Behr Wood Stains. You have been warned!

61. Never use Thompson's Water Sealer. Why waste your time!

62. Never apply an oil-based stain over top of a water-based stain and vice versa. You can create an adhesion issue.

63. Never apply a new coating on top of an old coating that is already failing and peeling. You will be wasting your time as the new coating will not "fix" the failed coating.

64. Never apply an oil-based wood deck stain to a wet deck unless the manufacturer says you can.

65. Never apply a wood deck stain during rain or if rain is forecasted shortly.

66. Never over apply a wood stain. "Thicker is not better" Extra coats will not make it last longer. In fact the stains can fail prematurely.

67. Never over apply on New Wood. New wood is not very absorbent and too much stain will just dry on top of the wood instead of penetrating into the wood. In most causes you will only need one coat on new wood.

68. Never apply a semi-transparent stain over a solid (opaque) stain.

69. Never apply a wood stain below the recommended minimum temperature. The stain may not dry or cure properly if you do.

70. Never apply a wood stain if the temperature will fall below freezing over night. This may be okay of your stain has enough time to dry prior, but if it is still wet when it freezes it may have issues.

71. Never apply a stain in extreme heat! The stain may "flash" dry. This can create unevenness and "shiny" spots.

72. Never stain your deck the day before a party. Due to weather conditions, stains may not be completely dry for a few days. The last thing you want is one of your friends leaning on a wet railing Embarassed

73. Never add mineral spirits or thinner to the stain. You will degrade its performance.

74. Never stain half the floor then take a long break. You may get overlap lines

75. Never roll around a heavy grill! These stainless steel grills weigh a lot and typically have small wheels. Rolling the grill back and forth across the decking will leave small dents. Applying a semi-transparent stain will enhance these dents leaving marks all over your decking.

76. Never fill your stain trays on grass. Any spills and the grass will die.

77. Never spray a wood stain on a windy day. One gust and the stain can get all over your windows, siding, or neighbors home.

78. Never wear black soled shoes when using an oil-based stain. The petroleum in the stain can soften the soles leaving black footprints all over your deck!

79. Never try to make your deck "shiny" like your interior hardwood floor. The stain will peel and it will be extremely difficult to remove. This happens when stains are over-applied or a film-forming varnish stain is chosen. An example of a film-forming varnish type stain is Sikkens Cetol. In our opinion this should never be used on decking surface.

80. Never step off your newly stained deck on to concrete or pavers. You will leave footprints.

81. Never worry about the knots of the wood being lighter in color. This is normal for a lot of the stains as the knots have a higher density, causing the stains to be less absorbent.

82. Never use water to clean oil-based stains.

83. Never leave oily rags or canvas tarps near or in the house! They can start a fire. Water down first if needed to reduce any chance of this occurring.

Consider - Wood Deck Restoration Tips you should Consider Using:

84. Pressure Washing - The use of the proper wood and deck cleaner, stripper and or brightener will make a huge difference. They will allow you to use less pressure and not damage the wood.

85. Use of a wood brightener after the use of a wood cleaner. While it is a must to use the brightener after a stripper, it is not always needed to after a cleaner. Best to follow directions. If you are unsure it will not hurt to use the brightener and it is the easiest step!

86. When stripping the deck from an old coating it is best to remove as much as possible. Try and shoot for 90-100%.

87. Choosing a penetrating non-film forming stain. The better the stain penetrates the better it will perform from wear and tear.

88. Use of a stain that is tinted. The tint is vital in absorbing the UV rays. This keeps the wood looking natural, prolonging the graying. If you want a “Crystal Clear” wood stain we strongly suggest the Defy Extreme Clear.

89. Understand that new boards that have been replaced on the deck will not match the older wood exactly.

90. The use of a sprayer to apply the stain will make the process a lot faster. Just make sure to wipe drips and cover/mask the over spray.

91. Having a friend or relative help! It will make your project much faster.
92. Look over your friend or relative's work as they may miss spots and may not have read these article's tipsSmile

Occasionally - Wood Deck Restoration Tips you should Occasionally use:

93. Strip the old stain off prior to adding a new coating. If you keep adding coatings every 2-3 years, you will get a buildup of stain. The best practice is to remove the old coating prior to applying a new coating. For best results it is our opinion that you do this every time you refinish your deck. This is not always possible so you should consider removal of the old coating(s) every second or third time.

94. Take short breaks. This is hard work. Not too long when staining as you do not want those overlaps!

95. Wipe drips from the bottom edges of vertical boards. They have a tendency to accumulate there and it is easier to wipe them off while the stain is still wet.

96. Go over your newly stained areas to check for missed spots prior to the stain drying.

97. If after 24 hours you still have a few areas where that stain is still wet it is okay to wipe off the excess with a rag.

98. Stain the underside of the deck. This is completely up to you. It will not have much effect on protecting the wood. This should be considered for homeowners who have walkout basements and are concerned about the aesthetic look. Less than 1% actually does this and be warned, you will get the stain all over you!

99. Clean the wood with a mild wood cleaner during the off years of staining. This will keep the stain and wood looking better.

100. Blow dirt, debris and leaves off deck. especially during the Fall season.

When Completed:

101. Relax, have dinner or a party on your beautiful newly refinished deck!

Thanks for reading this all the way to the end! It is a lot to absorb all at once. Please scroll down to bottom if you would like to ask a question or post a comment.

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Comments (70)

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nuetrualize or not
If I were to use a oxygen bleach product on a deck that didnt need to be stripped do I need to use a nuetralizer for brightning or will the bleach do that for me?And also is oxygen bleach sufficant on its own to clean the wood or do I need to add an ingredient to it to help get the results I want? Thanks Doug
bossking , March 02, 2010
re: neutralize or not
Yes if you use an Oxygenated Bleach you will need to use a Wood Brightener. The active ingredient in Oxygenated Bleach is Sodium Percarbonate. This is a caustic that will "darken" the wood. The Brightener is a mild acid that will neutralize the caustic and "brighten" the wood. You do not "add" together. They are two separate steps.
TheSealerStore , March 02, 2010
Boat dock
I have a dock with a full sun deck on top. I have used TWP, Behr, Olympic, etc. Nothing I have tried will last more than 1 year. I saw your ad about Defy product and wondered if it would last and if anyone has used it on their dock.
Ebb Scott , March 04, 2010
re: Boat dock
Behr and Olympic are poor to average products at best. TWP is one of our top selling products and in most cases will last 2 years on a horizontal surface. Defy typically lasts about the same as the TWP (2 years). The newer Defy Extreme has shown even better results.

For maximum UV protection make sure to use a stain that is tinted. The tint acts as a UV blocker, prolonging the graying of the wood. Make sure that all previous coatings are removed prior to using a different brand of stain.
TheSealerStore , March 04, 2010
DAMAGED WOOD
I USED THE RED TIP ON MY PRESSURE WASHER AND THERE ARE GAUGES IN THE WOOD,AM I SCREWED.IS THERE ANY WAY TO UNDO THE DAMAGED OR DO I HAVE TO REPLACE THE WOOD.DID THIS LAST SUMMER,NOTICING IN SOME SPOTS THE PAINT IS GONE.ALSO REALIZED I COUNDN'T SPRAY THE PAINT ON,HAD TO USE A PAINT BRUSH TO DO IT.CAN I JUST STRIP THE PAINT OFF AND JUST REDO IT.IF SO WHATS THE BEST WAY.THANKS,LEARNED A LESSON
kaz , March 17, 2010
re: DAMAGED WOOD
I am sorry but there is no way to undo the damage that you created. Your best bet would be to sand the entire deck as much as possible to smooth the wood or replace.

Paint is not strippable but transparent and semi-transparent stains are.
TheSealerStore , March 18, 2010
how to stripp opaque stain?
i have opaque stained wood deck.[i do not know what kind because i just bought this house] it needs restoration. how to strip the opaque stain?
i saw the regular stain stripper will remove transparent and semi transparent stain only.
nita , March 28, 2010
re: how to stripp opaque stain?
It is not usually possible to strip opaque (solid color) stains. Most likely you will need to:

1. Sand the stain off.
2. Strip then sand the rest off.
3. Strip multiple times. This can vary widely as it depends on the stain and how many coats.

Unfortunately there is no easy solution to removing solid stains or paints. As a restoration company in Metro Detroit, we will not do them as it is very difficult.
TheSealerStore , March 28, 2010
so much confusion about best prodct type
so let me get this straight :
the only way to achieve uv protection so that i can at least make my horizontal deck last 2 years is to have my stain tinted and so that eliminates clear finishes and sealers
next if I need penetration and not film build up then i need an oil based product and not to leave much on the top so probably I need one coat only.
decks that have build up of multi coats or solid stain are probably impossible to have stripped so i probably will have to recoat with a solid deck stain

thanks---great info and fantastic manner in which you share your expertise
frank macneil , March 31, 2010
re: so much confusion about best prodct type
Some clear sealers offer UV protection. The best would be Defy Extreme Clear. A tinted stain will do much better though.

Oil based stains typically penetrate better then water based. Mainly because an oil based stain molecule is "smaller" then a water based. Defy also has the best penetrating water based stain.

Multiple coatings of semi-transparent stains can be stripped. Solid stains (opaques) cannot be stripped in most cases.

Thanks for the praise!
TheSealerStore , March 31, 2010
Wood Deck
What is the best stain/sealant for a pressure treated wood deck?
Janet S. Scott , April 07, 2010
re: Wood Deck
There is not a "best stain" of all the brands we carry. They are all high end products. Some do better though with different climates. Please respond to as which state you live in and we can narrow it down to a couple of choices. Thanks
TheSealerStore , April 08, 2010
...
I have a 6 year old pressure treated wood deck. I've been using Thompson's Water Sealer which I know was a mistake. I last used it almost 2 years ago. My local specialty paint store told me that I can never get the Thompson's completely removed from the wood no matter what cleaner or brightener I use or if I power wash. Something about a chemical that always remains in the wood. They recommended continuing with Thompson's every 2 years after a power wash. Can I remove the Thompson's from the wood? If so, can you recommend a cleaner, brightener and sealer for Omaha, NE weather (zip 68116)?

Great site...very informative!
julie kirch , April 12, 2010
re: 6 year old treated deck
Removing the Thompson's water seal is actually very easy and any of these stain strippers will work:

Deck Stain Strippers

Your local store is very uninformed when it comes to deck products.

When choosing a sealer it is best to pick a penetrating but pigmented stain.

Wood Deck Stains
TheSealerStore , April 12, 2010
...
I have a pressure-treated deck, built October/2009. It's in central North Carolina. It catches a lot of hot afternoon sun. It's time to prepare and then stain/seal. Could you recommend a stain/sealer? It looks like Behr and Olympic are off the list, too many bad reviews. I want to like Cabot 1400 as it has done very well on my covered porches but not so good on a small deck. So maybe TWP or Sikkens? Others? Do you know anything about the new Benjamin Moore Arborcoat product? Thanks for any information you can provide, I do appreciate it!
KH , April 14, 2010
re: pressure-treated deck
All of the stains that we sell are high end.

Cabot 1400 is more of an opaque stain.

TWP is one of our best selling stains and is a very good product.

Sikkens is way over priced for a mediocre stain.

Benjamin Moore wood stains in the past have been mediocre at best. They make great paints but have never been known to offer high quality wood stains. Hard to say if their new stain will be better. It does contains nano-particles of zinc oxide which helps with UV protection. My one concern would be that it may film on top of the wood. This could cause peeling and wear patterns. This is just speculation though.
TheSealerStore , April 14, 2010
...
Thanks for the reply. A co-worker (in Atlanta, GA) told me yesterday afternoon he tried Penofin after seeing and hearing praise about it from a contact in Oregon. It's been 3 years and time for re-app, not unusual I guess, he's very pleased with how its held up. I may have to add that one to the short list.
KH , April 15, 2010
Pressurized wood - never been stained
My deck is about 10 years old and is made of pressure treated wood. I have had the house 5 years and do not know what the previous owner used on the deck. I have not done anything but clean it every year. This year it is really full of mildew, we had a BAD winter here on Long Island, NY. I have been researching on the web and you have a great site! I am wondering what I should do to restore the deck. Can I just clean and brighten? Should I seal it or stain it? I want to keep it as low maintenance as possible. Thank you!
Diane Walters , April 18, 2010
re: Pressurized wood - never been stained
You should clean and brighten followed by a stain/sealer to protect and preserve the wood.

TheSealerStore , April 18, 2010
stripping BHER soild color paint
Could you please recommed a paint stripper to remove BHER solid colour paint of a pressure treated wooden deck. I painted my deck last spring and the paint came off in number of places. BHER recommended using their brand of pint/stain stripper (from HD)but this didn't work. I used more then two coats of this stripper and it didn't do a thing. I am locatd in Kitchener, Ontario Canada.
Thank you for your help.
Les Kuczynski
Les , April 23, 2010
re: stripping BHER soild color paint
Sorry but none of the deck stain strippers will remove solid stains. They only will work on semi-transparent or transparent stains. You will need to sand it off.
TheSealerStore , April 23, 2010
Sanding decks
You mention sanding decks. Would/could a deck be sanded in the same manner wood floors are sanded, with a belt or drum sander and edger even though it only has a semi stain on it now?

It seems that would be even easier and cleaner than using a stripper.
Frankie13 , April 25, 2010
re: Sanding decks
It is substantially easier to strip a semi-transparent deck stain compared to sanding it off.

Typically sanding is you last resort if the stain will not come off with a deck stripper. This usually happens if the deck stain is an opaque/solid stain.

Using a floor/drum sander can be used but you will show sanding marks. These are designed for interior hardwood floors. The majority of decks are made from softwoods such as Cedar, Redwood, and Pressure Treated Pine.
TheSealerStore , April 25, 2010
Which products for LI, NY?
I am the person with the 10 year old pressure treated deck that needs a major cleaning and brightening and then staining. Which product would you recommend for Long Island? This deck gets full sun in summer and I am near the water so I want to use environmentally friendly products.Thank you.smilies/smiley.gif
Diane Walters , April 25, 2010
re: Which products for LI, NY?
For environmentally friendly products I would suggest the Defy Wood Restoration products. They are registered "green" by the Masters Paint Institute.
TheSealerStore , April 25, 2010
i live in kansas
I live in South East Kansas and I have used Penifen I got from the local hardware store but not real pleased with the out come. Could you tell me what would be the best for this type of climate as far as cleaner, brightner and stain/sealer?
Dion Thompson , April 30, 2010
re: i live in kansas
I would suggest stripping the Penofin off with a Deck Stain Stripper. When done you will need to neutralize with a Wood Brightener.

All of the stains we sell are higher end. What is the main reason(s) that you are displeased with the Penofin? If you could list a couple then I could suggest a brand.

Thanks
TheSealerStore , May 01, 2010
i live in kansas
The color didn't hold for more than 1 year and i thought it would bead the water but it never did
Dion Thompson , May 01, 2010
re: i live in kansas
Beading water is not important and is a misconception. Did you use a tint for the Penofin? The tint is very important to keep the color. You might want to look at:

TWP Stains
Defy Extreme Stain
Armstrong Clark
TimberOil
Wood Tux
Messmers
TheSealerStore , May 01, 2010
Dark Spots
I have dark spots in a corner of my deck after staining. I must have overlooked them when spreading the stain. Any suggestions on how to smooth these dark spots out or get rid of them altogether?
lmccallister , May 05, 2010
re: Dark Spots
If it is "thick" areas of stain that made the dark spots you could try removing a little with paint thinner. This would only work if the stain was oil based though.
TheSealerStore , May 05, 2010
...
Hello. Our deck picks up every piece of mud, dirt, anything that may be on our shoes and leaves marks...everywhere! Even when I clean it with a hose, it doesn't get everything up. It seems that only when I get down on my hands and knees will it get a little better? I've never had a deck do this. We have two coats of an oil-based paint.Thank you.
Barbara , May 08, 2010
re: dirty deck
Some stains will attract dirt and grime more then others. You can always clean with a wood deck cleaner to help remove all the grime.

Which deck stain did you use?
TheSealerStore , May 08, 2010
...
Thank you! I am the person with the pressure treated deck on LI. I tried the Defy Cleaner and brightener. WOW!! Deck looks fantastic!smilies/cheesy.gif
Diane from LI , May 11, 2010
...
You are welcome! I am glad it turned out so well for you smilies/grin.gif
TheSealerStore , May 11, 2010
correct damage to wood fence and deck
BEHR Interior/Exterior Low Lustre Sealer No. 986 Low-Gloss for almost anything but wood, was used on a new wood fence and deck. Any way to remove it and reverse the damage if any?
Danie , May 20, 2010
semi-transparent over semi-solid?
Can semi-transparent stain go over semi-solid stain? (Cabot)

Thanks for your help.
Bonnie , May 27, 2010
re: semi-transparent over semi-solid?
Depends if the if the first coating is porous enough to accept another coating. I would do a test spot first.
TheSealerStore , May 28, 2010
...

RE: Fading Color - Brazilian Redwood decking
Long Island, New York Area
I installed a Brazilian Redwood deck approximately 2 years ago and have tried to retain the original reddish color but both products used have failed to perform as advertized. The decking is now brown/grey in color, I originally used Messmer's U.V Plus after the deck was completed - I allowed 6 weeks before appling the sealer in order for the mill glaze to fade but after two months I noticed that the deck boards were turning brown. The following season I consulted a local deck contractor and he recommended Penofin Rosewood Oil, I sanded the deck in order to remove any old sealent and restore the original red coloring. The deck looked great for about a month and it then started to fade to it's current brown/grey color.

What can I do refinish the deck and what products would be recommended in order to retain the natural red tone of this wood - any recommendation would be helpful as the deck is perfect (no warping or cupping and very minor checking) it just looks terrible.

Thank you
Pasquale , May 31, 2010
re: Brazillian Redwood Deck
Hardwood decking requires maintenance typically on an annual basis. This is due to the density of the wood not the stains.

I would suggest removal of any old coatings with a wood stain stripper followed by a wood brightener. This should prep the wood properly for a new coating.

Since you have already tried the Messmers and Penofin, I would suggest going with the Defy Stain for Hardwoods.
TheSealerStore , June 01, 2010
...
We purchased our home in 2002 and it has a 25x30' deck made from rough cut oak. Is there anything that can be used (water or oil base) on an oak deck? Nothing seems to penetrate the dense wood and I need to restain every year.
Wayne Griffin , June 13, 2010
re: Oak decking
Oak is an American hardwood. I would would use a stain that is designed to penetrate hardwoods. Here is a couple of suggestions:

Defy Stain for Hardwoods
Messmers UV Plus For Hardwoods
TheSealerStore , June 14, 2010
Coating for a cedar deck
We have a clear cedar deck that is covered on the South side of our home here in Washington. I would like to sand it and give it a coating of clear or semi transparent finish. The wood is beautiful and i'd really like to bring out the grain. My wife keeps potted plants on it and the watering in the summer leaves black water marks after it evaporates. Could you sugest a product that we could use to protect the wood?
wilson , July 02, 2010
re: Coating for a cedar deck
All of our stains/sealers will work for you. I would go with a semi-transparent for better UV protection.

In your area I would suggest:

Defy Extreme Stain
Armstrong Clark Stain
TimberOil Stain
TWP Stain

TheSealerStore , July 03, 2010
Use of an Airless Sprayer vs Pump Sprayer
I am planning to re-stain my deck at our vacation home in the San Bernardino Mts. this weekend.
Can I use an airless sprayer vs a pump sprayer? I used a pump sprayer first time to do my fencing and it was a slow and messy process.
L. A. Hadley , July 06, 2010
re: Use of an Airless Sprayer vs Pump Sprayer
Yes you can use an airless sprayer if you desire.
TheSealerStore , July 06, 2010
I want to do this once this year...
My deck is tigerwood, finished two years ago using Penofin for Exotic woods. It was applied to bare, smooth sanded surface. The result looked good, but under rain (Seattle), it turned milky. Many of the comments here do not reference tigerwood, are there any additional steps I need to take from the following
1) Strip
2) Sand (what grit? I read 60 is preferred, that seems pretty coarse)
3) Seal
4) Stain with a semi transparent good quality product
Great site too BTW, never seen this sort of detail and expertise freely available before
Brian DiGiusto , July 06, 2010
re: I want to do this once this year...
Tigerwood is considered an exotic hardwood and is extremely dense. Many hardwoods require annual cleaning and application of a stain. This is mainly due to the dense wood and "lack" of absorption for the stain. Best to:

1. Clean and or strip the old coating of the wood
2. I am not a fan of sanding exterior wood unless needed. You can allow less penetration for the wood and if sanded uneven, your stain will dry uneven.
3 Stains are sealers in that the "seal" the wood and add pigment to "stain" the wood. They are not two components.

Thanks for the praisesmilies/grin.gif
TheSealerStore , July 07, 2010
...
we built our deck out of old deck boards.
they were painted with what looks like barn red deck paint.
our spindles are new as well as our posts.
we built the deck last fall.
what are your suggestions to stain it.
we live in northern Illinois.
Is sanding the rest of the paint off the best to do? what brand of stain is the best to use?
Thank you for any help you can give.
Brandie Berogan , July 10, 2010
re: old deck boards
You cannot strip off red paint efficiently. Best to sand if you want it to be bare wood.

There is not a "best" stain that we sell. All of them are high end products.

For Northern IL you would want a stain that is tinted and penetrates into the wood. Here is some that will work:

TimerOil
TWP Stains
Defy Stains
Armstrong Clark
Penofin
Messmers
TheSealerStore , July 11, 2010
Cabots semi-solid
My deck currently has a Cabots semi-solid stain on it that was applied just over 2 years ago. From what I've read, it sounds like a transparent and a semi-transparent can both be successfully stripped and a solid stain cannot. However, I'm still a bit unclear about whether semi-solids can be stripped without paying a contractor a fortune to do it. I want to apply a lighter stain to show more of the wood's natural beauty, but I know I have to get rid of the existing stain first. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
Chad , July 13, 2010
re: Cabots semi-solid
Basically the thicker the stain is, the harder to strip. In addition filming stains (stains that lie on top of the wood) are much more difficult to remove then penetrating stains.

Here is list from most easiest to most difficult type of stains to remove. 1. being the easiest:

1. Transparent oil based stains
2. Semi-transparent oil based stains
3. Semi-solid oil based stains
4. Semi-transparent acrylic water based stains
5. Semi-solid water based stains
6. Solid oil based stains
7. Solid water based stains
opwdecks , July 14, 2010
Dude
My deck is 95% in the shade, under trees. Therefore, after a rain, the drying time is very very long. If there happens to be any debris in some corner that I didn't see, it's even longer. In the fall often wet leaves just sit on top. In the winter, with temperatures averaging in the 40's, the snow will do it's melting damage the entire season. Should I simply use paint in this case? Worrying about seeing the grain at this point, is almost not even a consideration. If we should use a paint, what would you recommend? FYI It's too hot to consider triming trees! smilies/sad.gif
Randy Howland , July 17, 2010
retired
I have a pressure treated walkway down to our boat dock which is level. I have stripped the wood with pressure washer and/or oxylic acid. The walkway is sloped downward and gets slippery when wet. I plan to put a semitransparent stain on it but would like to have a little fine grit for traction. Any advice?
Gordon Chipman , July 18, 2010
Oil-based or water-based old stain unknown
I have an upper deck attached to our cottage with 85 steps to a lower deck by lake. Unfortunately, the decks/stairs had a solid stain applied 6 years ago, but I don't know if it was oil or water-based. I have applied 3 brands of strippers, which left about 80-90% of the old stain on wood. Then I sanded the upper deck with a plate sander and actually removed about 95%. I would really like to apply Cabot Semi-Solid oil-based. However, I don't know if this is the correct thing to do, since I don't know what was on it before. Am I forced to use acrylic based solid for adherence because oil-based won't get thru the old residual stain? Or is just because they believe the 5% of residual would show somewhat thru the semi-solid? After all the hours and sweat I've put into stripping/sanding at least the upper deck, I really hate the thought of being forced back into a solid stain! Am I doomed?
Kathy P. , July 18, 2010
re: Dude
I would not use a paint. I would use a stain that is easy to apply and rcoat as needed without heavy stripping. Timber Oil
TheSealerStore , July 19, 2010
re: retired
When using a penetrating stain it is not possible to add a "fine grit" to the stain for traction. It will not work. To do so you will need a film-forming product such as a paint.
TheSealerStore , July 19, 2010
re: Oil-based or water-based old stain unknown
If you have removed 95% of the old stain then I think you are okay to apply the oil based stain. I would though use a Wood Cleaner and a Wood Brightener to "open" the wood pores after you sanded the deck.
TheSealerStore , July 19, 2010
Oil-based or water-based over old stain
Thank you for your answer! (I have done hours of web surfing for this staining project and your site is definitely the most informative and easy to understand BAR NONE!) For the stairs and the lower deck that still have 80-90% of the old "unknown" stain, would that formula have to change to solid acrylic in the same color, or do you think I continue down the stairs etc with same semi-solid oil?
Kathy P. , July 19, 2010
re: Oil-based or water-based over old stain
Hopefully using the same oil based stain would work. Might be best to do a small test spot in an area to see how well it adheres. If does not dry properly and you can "rub" off with little effort then you might want to use the water based version in those thicker areas. Have you tired to use a wood stain stripper one last time? It would be great if you could get 95% off. smilies/smiley.gif
TheSealerStore , July 20, 2010
pre-1994 pressure treated, painted and LARGE upper deck, painted by previous owners
I've been researching what to do with our back deck for some time, and yours is the BEST website by far! By the previous owners, the deck was painted on the floor in two color layers; the railings in three color layers. The wood is grey underneath. All is now peeling, looks terrible, and mold and mildew have grown in a huge way from all the rain this past spring (Charlotte, NC). After reading these posts, I know we will have to sand the paint off in order to apply the semi-transparent stain we would prefer, but concerned about the arsenic in the wood being released by doing so. This deck is very large (two levels, overall about 40' by 20'), so wondering if repainting might be the best option. Any advice greatly appreciated. Aware that this will be a big job smilies/cry.gif Thanks!
R.A. , July 21, 2010
re: pre-1994 pressure treated, painted and LARGE upper deck, painted by previous owners
Thanks for the praise!smilies/grin.gif This particular article has become our most popular to date by far!

Sanding would be a huge chore and you probably will not get it all off from the railings. If possible you might want to keep the railings painted and sand all the horizontals. This will give you a nice two tone effect where the railings are a solid color and the flooring is more of a natural color. It is easier to sand the horizontals and it is easier to maintain in the future if the flooring is more a natural penetrating stain.

Transparent and semi-transparent stains do offer protection from the CCA wood that you have.
TheSealerStore , July 22, 2010
new IPE stairs & railings.
I have enjoyed your website. I have a new set of IPE stairs and railings and I would like to take "reasonable" care of this wood without doing more than is needed. We live in MInneapolis. From my reading, you seem to recommend cleaning => brightening => staining even for new wood. I am inclined to try the Defy series of products. I would use the "clear" stain (Defy Extreme Stain) as I like the natural IPE color. The stairs off of the deck and the railings around the deck are IPE with black painted aluminum spindles, The deck surface, however, is made of gray white unsealed stone tiles (1' X 1'). The IPE surfaces are 300 to 350 sq. ft. and the cedar lattice about 150 sq. ft. ==> Along the sides of the deck are sliding lattice panels made of cedar that also need some protection but not as much as the lovely IPE. I do not see me doing this process more than every 2 years.
Do I need to protect the spindles (painted aluminum) and or the stone tiles during the cleaning/ brightening steps?
The same question for the staining step using the Defy Extreme product.
Without the directions available, how long between cleaning - brightening - staining.
With IPE, water vs. oil based products - which is "best" - "easy"
There were hose spray products for the cleaning/brightening steps. any comments.
Thanks for your attention. I will order product from you after your answers.

Jim Erdahl , August 07, 2010
re: new IPE stairs & railings.
IPE is extremely dense wood and stains will not typically last two years. More like one season if the stain has a tint in it. The Defy Extreme in clear will not last a full season on the IPE. I would strongly suggest getting the Defy Extreme in a tint for better UV protection. The vertical Cedar you have will last for two or more years though.

The spindles and stone tiles should be fine during the cleaning process. Do not get any stain on them though. I would use the Defy Wood cleaner and and the Defy Wood Brightener when suing the Defy stains.

There is not a best or easy stain with IPE. The issue is with the density of the IPE wood and not the stains. It is so hard that all stains have an issue with penetration which usually results in a quicker color fading.
TheSealerStore , August 09, 2010
Defy Extreme question
I am interested in the Defy Extreme to use over cedar siding, but was wondering about what happens when it needs redone. Will I have to strip off the old layer of Defy or can I just put on another coat?
steinpiaz , August 11, 2010
re: Defy Extreme question
If it wears evenly then all you need to do is clean and re coat with the Defy Extreme. This is the most likely scenario for normal wear and tear on the flooring.
TheSealerStore , August 12, 2010
Dufus
I'm perhaps the stupidest homeowner in Metro Detroit: I applied two gallons of Sikkens SDR to my recently powerwashed deck on two different days and now have a blotchy, uneven, stained deck. I applied the stain with a roller. Is there any chance if I go back over the light spots with a brush that it will even out and at least look like it's all one color? I'm not looking for perfection -- just to avoid having all guests think I'm a complete idiot. Thanks.
Jason , August 25, 2010
re: Dufus
No it is not possible to "spot" treat the areas to even out the stain with a positive curing stain like Sikkens. It will look like you spot treated it.

It would be better to apply a very light coat of stain to the entire deck. This should help even it out. Use a flat exterior stain pad instead. You can pick one up at our store in Rochester Hills if you like.
TheSealerStore , August 26, 2010
footprints on the stained porch
We used Flood UV-Clear Wood Finish (CWF) (after buying DEFY and realizing that it turned the wood a milky white, even after drying). The Flood looks awesome on our sanded, Pine (partially enclosed) porch floors. The Flood stain was put down on Friday, and it's now Monday, and my husband walked on it today in his running shoes and left black footprints. I wiped away the footprints.
1.Could the stain still be drying after three days?
2.Would it be a good idea to cover the stain with DEFY extreme clear stain?
3.Could it be because my husband's shoes are 20+ years old?
Eileen , August 30, 2010
re: footprints on the stained porch
1. Probably still not 100% cured. This can happen in shaded or covered areas.
2. No do not put a different stain on top of the CWF! It will not work or penetrate.
3. Probably not.

Defy is not prone to turning white. Most likely this may be due to the sanding. Sanding can cause the stain to not penetrate properly into the wood.
TheSealerStore , August 31, 2010

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